Check the carb bowl solenoid for function. You should hear a click at the solenoid when the key is turned to the on/run position. If you have a multi meter check for 12 volts at the connector with the key in on. If not, trace the wire for shorts or cuts. If you have 12 volts, take the solenoid off and re-plug the connector, turn the key to on. The plunger should retract.
If it doesn't the mower will do exactly as you describe.
Read through this thread, and welcome to the forum.
https://www.mylawnmowerforum.com/fo...rum.com/forum/18-john-deere/60921-john-deere-l111-stalling-after-short-use.html

 

Thank you, JT. Unfortunately, I do not have a volt meter but when its running (before this issue) lights worked fine and it did not seem to have any electrical issues at all. I did just go and check for the 'click' down around the solenoid and it DOES click. (As expected, I unplugged it and no click when the key was turned on.) The only other thing I seem to find is that the coil has gone bad. But its worth noting that from what I read, the coil seems to cause this problem after minutes of use (10-30). Mine stalls out within 30 seconds...

The second consideration is the battery. Given that the battery needs to be replaced regardless as it wont hold a charge and I need a charger to boost start it, I wasnt sure if these issues may be related and all pointing to a bad battery..

If the battery, thats an easy replacement. If the coil, is the coil easy to replace for someone who knows nothing about this stuff? (i.e. - order it on Amazon and when it arrives, find the old one on the machine and swap them out)? Presuming the voltage is good, do these symptoms sound like the solenoid has gone bad? Would enough gas still get to the carb each attempt to start it but not enough to keep it running if the plunger didnt return as it should?

I REALLY appreciate the help!!

 

its your carb, something is blocking the fuel passage inside it. playing with the choke is a different fuel passage for gas so thats what its running from.

its cheaper to replace a carb then bother fooling around with a carb that is acting up. for $25 you can put a brand new one on and your done in 5 minutes

 

Wow - I didnt see that coming. I thought all the choke did was close off the intake somewhat to create more suction and hence, more gas... Ive only got the one fuel line to the carb (or so I thought...).. Where were you seeing a carb for $25 and does that come with a solenoid?

 

I did find one on Amazon ($55) which looks good, and complete. Do you feel strongly this is my issue?

 

I'd rather try some diagnostic things before swapping parts. If you have a Nikki double barrel carb, they are expensive and overly complicated inside

I'd check some things first. You said you replaced the fuel pump, did you replace any of the 3 lines (to carb, from tank, pump line)? The pump line whether it comes out of the oil fill neck or engine sometimes get clogged with oil residue, especially on Briggs Inteks that are getting ready to or already have a blown head gasket. At the least pull the one off the carb and run the starter with the line in a clear or white container (empty/washed/dried sour cream, cottage cheese work great). See if there are any specs or black pieces and that the fuel has a good flow. ANY chance you installed the fuel filter backward (should be arrow pointed toward carb)? If you have weak or very little flow when running the starter try removing the tank to fuel pump line at the pump (assuming all the lines are on the correct nipples), hold it down lower than the fuel tank in back to get a gravity feed, clamp it quick with pliers and re-attach to the fuel pump and try starting it. If you get no flow or there's not enough line to get below the tank in backs level, have someone else cup their hand over the fuel fill and blow into the tank, or jack up the rear of the mower enough to get flow.

 

I have removed the engine cover to expose the carb and detached the fuel line from the carb. I turned it over and gas flowed just fine into a cup. This was at the spot where the line connects to the carb. Upon site, it all looks fine. Will start right up, run for a few seconds, cough and stall. So gas is getting to the carb just fine. However, I see the throttle try to adjust to maintain the engine running but it still stalls out... So that brings me back to if could be the coil, battery or internals of the carb itself (which I wouldnt have a clue about fixing)... Thoughts?

What about the voltage regulator?

 

Here is the latest - with the engine cover off (and no air filter) I keep starting it and it seems to run a little longer each time - BUT - only at full choke. If I lower, it stalls out. I also notice a bit of white smoke coming up from the engine, particularly from the OHC box on the right-hand side. What is the recommended plug for the JD L118, V-Twin B&S Intek 22 HP motor- I bought a tune-up kit a few months ago and didn't check that the plugs sent were the correct ones called for...

 

Today we are back to the same. I cannot start it without a battery boost. Wont even turn over on its own so the battery is shot. Could that cause these issues?

 

Sorry you're still having probs. If you had a cheapo multi tester (Harbor Freight sometimes has a coupon for them free) we could probably get you going. Problem with Briggs is I've seen that carb solenoid have a chaffed wire that loses 12volts once the machine starts rumbling, seen them lose the plunger tip inside the main stalk, get sticky and still click and yet not retract enough to allow fuel. Also Briggs are famous for valves getting out of whack and causing a hard start, even with a fully charged battery, they can't get past the compression. The symptoms you have at face value sound like a clogged carb, but depending on the carb you have can be a little overwhelming if you're not used to doing them, especially the double barrel ones. Jets can fall out, one side is different from the other, generally over complicated IMO. All I can say is I have seen more problems (given your symptoms) with the carb bowl solenoid and the wire to it, than with the double barrel carbs. You may have a loose safety switch, or cracked ground connector that only shows symptoms once the engine starts vibrating everything, too. Since you said you already have the engine shroud removed, you could try removing the kill wires from the coils and try running the machine. If it stays running you know you have a safety switch problem.
Forgot, Most Briggs OHV engines take the Champion RC12YC or whatever brand marked Briggs 491055S , gapped at .030

 

Another quick check...Buy a spray can of carb cleaner [Walmart]....remove air filter, start engine, as it begins to 'die", spray a burst of carb cleaner into the air intake...spray again, if you can keep it running for a bit longer, then you proved the problem is fuel starvation...[most likely the carb]....If the spraying does Nothing...then check for spark at sparkplug...and you may have a quick to quit coil....[unlikely thou]....as for your battery, it's only job is to spin the starter...[after eng starts....alternator and or battery can keep the carb solenoid open...Battery is not used in any way to fire your coil...it is done with magnetism]...

 

To add to the guys above, the kill wires used on these Briggs engines have diodes in them so current only flows one way. Sometimes, one will go bad and you'll get a dead cylinder. This might cause it to die quickly. I'd definitely take jtclays's advice and run w/o kill wires to test if they're both good. Checking your valve lash would be a good thing as well.

 

Your issue is with the carb, sounds like solenoid is not working. All the things you think are wrong with it are non issues, all caused by the carb issue. Governor is trying to keep it running is all. You are overthinking it! If it was coil, no start, Voltage regulator has nothing to do with it. Check the power lead to solenoid then either repair power issue, replace solenoid or carb and solenoid.

 

Thank you for all the help! I bought a bottle of motor mechanic and ran that through. It did not seem to make a difference to speak of. I turned down the rev to about 3/4's and if I keep the choke on full, at least for this one time, stayed running long enough to mow the lawn. As Ericjr indicated, the governor is working hard to keep it going. On full choke, it seems to vacillate less but still does a little. When the choke is half or off, it revs up and down trying to find its fuel and then stalls out.
Unfortunately, I dont know the mechanic side of things so many of the recommendations I cant do cause I dont know what or where the suggestions are pointing. For example, checking the valves - no idea. Running without the kill wires, no idea how to do this... Swapping the carb out is probably something I can do however once I see if its a 1 barrel or 2. (Its a 22HP twin Intek)... Frankly, I'm inclined to sell it and go buy a zero-turn cub cadet or Toro!