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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have found many many postings allover the net that sounds exactly like mine is going to. Some are very old going back to 08, 09 Main thing seems to be no one posts what actually fixes the problem.
Here I go.... Mine was running like a top and making me smile every day. All of a sudden it starts to pop, shudder, shake and puke. Not enough power to mow or even pull it's self along. It then would not start until it rests for about 1/2 hour. Then it will start and run like normal for about 3 minutes. As I said I have read this maybe 10 places. Where exactly is this "exciter" thing? It also smells like raw gas. Don't even suggest a carb kit as that has been discontinued by JD. A new carb complete is close to 200, and no guarantee thats the problem. Replaced so far, fuel line, spark plug, fuel, and blew out the small holed in the brass jet thingy on the top of the carb. Also pulled the valve cover and set the valve openings. All no change. Starts second pull, I smile, lead it out to the lawn and the games begin. Being I can smell flooding it could be choke that is not coming off when warm????? Oh yea, the oil is getting black real fast, again indicating over gassing, or maybe not consistant spark.

Please guys what got your Kawasaki engines back on track! This thing is acting like a spoiled brat at Walmart.
 

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Not exciter but ignitor. It screws to the left side of the engine near the throttle linkage. Two wires go to it. That is your problem. For what its worth when I ut a new carb on my 144SB 4 years ago it was under $50. Roger
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ignitor was good.

I have 2 of these machines. I found the igniter. Very nasty to remove because its screwed to the back side. I swapped the ignitor from the running mower to the non running. Now the running mower is running even better with the non running mowers part. Therefore the ignitor could not have been the problem.

New problem on the stubborn one. Now all of a sudden it has no spark. Plug out,, plug touching engine = no spark at the plug gap. So what was running very poorly will now not run at all. Could I be dealing with a bad coil?

By the way who might know the correct valve setting or "valve lash" clearance. I saw a video where a very young kid said he set the valve cleara nce to .oo4 I know a 4 stroke with the incorrect valve clearance is a dog.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
here's where I at to this point

It cannot be the carb. Why, because I took the carb off the bad mower and put it on the good mower then cut the whole yard. I put the carb from the good mower on the will not run mower and it fired right up and revved and ran great for 30 seconds then went into a coughing and sputtering fit. It was popping flames and backfiring through the carb.

So if the ignitors and the carbs are both swapped and nothing changes where do I turn? Remember it has always ran from a cold start for about 20 to 30 seconds. When things begin to warm up it goes stupid. Could this mean valves. I tried my best to lash them TDC to 006. I DO NOT KNOW the correct lash, as John Deere is very tight with its information on line. And are valves a huge job? Am I wasting money by working on junk? When I bought this mower at a yard sale it had a bent crank. I pulled the blade clutch, totally wrecking it, and then split the case and installed the new crank myself. It then ran great for 5 years. So I do now how it looks from the inside, and am not afraid to tackle the work. Just dont need to waste 600 bucks chasing my tail

Orrrr could it be timing. Could it be the coil going bad. What is the correct spacing between coil arms and magnet on flywheel? I set that at about 006 after I light sanded the arms and magnet on the fly wheel.

Funny thing this mower was running like a top right up until is snapped and became a nightmare. So as you can tell I am stumped and almost ready to give up. Well at least I am losing sleep. Grrrrrrrr!!!!!!
 
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