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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, haven't been on here in awhile. A guy at work had two toro snowblowers, an S620 and an S200. He said if I help him get the S620 running, I can have the S200. Anyways, the one hes giving me is pretty rough looking. Its missing the electric starter, but I figure I can still use it with the pull start. I'm gonna rebuild the carb right away, but I have a few questions. First, if I looked this thing up right, its a 1979 model? Model number is 38130, Serial number is 9093448. Second, these carbs look pretty easy to rebuild, but I'm wondering how the lo and hi adjustment screws should be set? I would assume turn them all the way in, then out about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 turns? or is one different than the other? I am ok running it without the electric starter on it, right? and finally, how do I know when the rubber paddels need replaced? there is about an 1/8" gap, maybe slight more between the edge of the flaps and the ground, are they shot? Can anything else be serviced on it, such as bearings in the auger (repacking with grease)? I can get the paddles for $10 a piece, about $11 for the carb kit, and maybe a few bucks for a spark plug, I'm thinking it might be worth getting running, provided I don't need to get a starter for it. Not worried about reselling it, I just want it for cleaning off my sidewalks and driveway (fits 3 cars). I think I'm putting my spending limit at $50 for this thing since its so old and I can find newer ones for under $100 on craigslist that run. Oh, and one final question, is there a fuel filter in the tank? Just wondering if it would be smart to replace the fuel lines and filter if it has one. The belt looks half decent yet. Thanks guys. I will get pics when I can.
 

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I can answer a few questions.. But not all of them.. As these aren't really my area of specialty.. However I own one and could take pictures if the need arise.

I believe that model was made on the 9th Day of the 3rd Month of 1990.. Or March third 1990.. As by the "9093" At the start of the Serial number.. They made these machines from about 1979 to about 1997 or so.. When they went over exclusively to the Later "Power Curve" Style augers.,

Many of these machines did not come with the electric start, But could have it installed as a dealer option.. So Unless it says "Toro S-200 With Electric start" On the front.. It most likely never had Electric start to begin with.

I have only tuned mine once, When I bought it it was smoking like crazy... So I turned the screws all the way in and then out 1 1/2 turns I believe and it runs great! :cool

There isn't a filter in the tank.. There should be one in the line.. And if there isn't you should add one..

From what I've seen the paddles are very tough.. And Don't usually need to be changed unless it was run on gravel or something which wore them down like crazy.. Once you get it going.. If it throws well.. The paddles are good, if it doesn't throw well.. they are bad.. I have no idea when they need to be replaced based on measurements..

Cheers :2th:

-Stan
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it did have electric start, says it on the shroud. I would imagine one of the disc type filters is what I want use instead of the brass type since it doesn't have a fuel pump? The paddles definately have some wear on them, they have a bevel worn into them. Is the scraper bar along the bottom of the snowblower? I looked some parts up on jackssmallengines and according to them it was a 1979, anything after that started with a 0 and went up from there, but it doesn't look that old, so that's why I questioned it
 

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You are correct, it is a 1979. The old S200s were pretty hard to kill. They work best on dry fluffy snow due to their paddle design, but if you're patient, you can get the job done on wet snow. You can get all the official Toro part numbers right off of the Toro parts viewer.

https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro&lang=us_en

Since the electric start doesn't work, you can make the whole contraption lighter and easier to use by just taking it off.

The important gap of the paddles is that between the paddle and the back of the housing, not the ground. The narrower the gap, the better the throwing.

This manual will help you out in getting everything apart, and back together again. It also shows how to check the electric starter's function.

View attachment 14161

Let us know how things go for you.
 

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Hi! Good information provided above. Not much to add other than to agree that these do work best on a fluffy snow due to the style of the auger and the flaps to direct the snow. My mom had one of these back in the early to mid 90's and I used it on many occasions when helping remove snow at her house. Nice little snowblower but not my first choice for a small snowblower. I am kind of stuck on the Toro Powerlite series and still have my original one from 2000 and two of the last year they made them which was 2009. The price you are getting it for (free) is a bonus but the parts can add up in a hurry. If you end up with $50 to $75 in it with paddles, scraper bar, belt, carb kit, & plug it should last you a long time. Good luck with getting it going and keep up posted. Bill
 

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I am kind of stuck on the Toro Powerlite Series.
So am I! I got one recently a customer had written off for dead after he seized it on straight gas.. Unseized it with a breaker bar and it started right up! On 2-2.5lbs of Compression! It has since gained a few pounds and is up to about 6-7.5lbs now.. And is one heck of a machine!

-Stan
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the help guys. The starter is missing, not even mounted to the unit anymore, so I'm not gonna even worry about that for now. Its not what I was looking for, I wanted something with a chute instead of the flaps, and would have prefered a snapper, but free is hard to beat, and if I can get it working for $50 or less, I'll be happy.
 

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Free is always good! If you get it going for a good price maybe you could flip it and find a Snapper for a good price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well, I tryed helping the other guy at work get his s620 running today over lunch. it had sat with old gas in it for about a year and a half and he said it started one day when it was warm out, but when it got cold out, it wouldn't start. I said, well, rather than tear right into the carb, lets take the tank off, dump that old gas out and wash the tank out. we did that and put fresh premix in it, hit the starter button and the the bendix flew apart:) tryed pull starting it and it fired right up, but we could not get it to stay running without the choke on, had to alternate between full choke and half choke to keep it going. So, looks like his carb has to come apart. I'm gonna get a carb kit for mine, hopefully tonight and would like to tear into mine this weekend. boy their noisy:)
 

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well, I tryed helping the other guy at work get his s620 running today over lunch. it had sat with old gas in it for about a year and a half and he said it started one day when it was warm out, but when it got cold out, it wouldn't start. I said, well, rather than tear right into the carb, lets take the tank off, dump that old gas out and wash the tank out. we did that and put fresh premix in it, hit the starter button and the the bendix flew apart:) tryed pull starting it and it fired right up, but we could not get it to stay running without the choke on, had to alternate between full choke and half choke to keep it going. So, looks like his carb has to come apart. I'm gonna get a carb kit for mine, hopefully tonight and would like to tear into mine this weekend. boy their noisy:)
Sounds as if a Carb clean is in order.. They are quite loud as they have no muffler.. that pipe underneath is simply an expansion chamber with some small holes in the end..

-Stan
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
got the carb kit and will try to get it running this weekend. I forgot to get a carb mounting gasket, so hopefully it comes off in one piece. I looked at the scraper bar tonight, and it appears ok yet. Don't know if its supposed to have a sharp edge or not, mine is kinda rounded and made out of plastic. My auger paddles come real close to it, but I have over 1/8", maybe almost 1/4" between them and the back of the housing. So maybe I should replace them.
 

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got the carb kit and will try to get it running this weekend. I forgot to get a carb mounting gasket, so hopefully it comes off in one piece. I looked at the scraper bar tonight, and it appears ok yet. Don't know if its supposed to have a sharp edge or not, mine is kinda rounded and made out of plastic. My auger paddles come real close to it, but I have over 1/8", maybe almost 1/4" between them and the back of the housing. So maybe I should replace them.
The scraper sounds great! they get a sharp edge when worn so.. I don't Think you have anything to worry about there.. I went outside and measured the Paddles on mine and they were about an eighth inch from the back of the thrower body... and nearly touching the scraping bar..

I'll snap some photos tomorrow.

-Stan
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok guys I got it running after work today. I was in a hurry, so I didn't get a chance to take pics. The carb was in sad shape. The diaphragm was torn, the hi and idle screws were all gummed up and somebody had them out before, left the old orings in the carb with the washers stuck to them, then put another set of orings on the screws, with no washer between them and the springs. The fuel inlet needle looked ok, but once I got the fitting out with the seat in it, I found a bunch of corrosion in the carb near the inlet. I got it all cleaned up and put back together the right way with everything in the rebuild kit. It seems to run ok, starts right up, but a have a couple questions. First, how fast are these supposed to run? I have an inductive clamp for my multimeter so I can check it if someone can give me a spec. It seems slow though. Also, and this may have to do with the engine speed, I turned both adjustment screws in all the way and then both out 1 1/4 turns for my initial adjustment. Once hot, I held the throttle to idle and turn the idle screw in till it was only out one full turn, that's where it seemed to idle the best, and then I let it run at its normal wide open and wound up turning the hi speed screw in to about the same position, one turn out. That's where it seemed to run the smoothest, with the most speed and only slight bit of blue smoke. Did I do this right? I ask because it seems to run kinda slow, and the throttle itself is not wide open, but I didn't know if it normally runs at part throttle and then the governor feeds it more throttle when you start blowing snow and putting a load on it. I guess maybe I should hold it wide open to set the hi screw? Is my governor not working right? Also had to bypass the ignition switch, it broke when taking the connector off. Wish we had some snow to try it out in. Oh, and it had been sitting in our shop over night, so its not like it was real cold when I ran it, don't know if that would make much difference. Thanks guys for any help you can offer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks Stan. I don't think mine is running as fast as yours. I'll have to check out my governor and see if its working like it should. Do you know if its the air vane type?
 

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Here's what that Toro Service manual in the pdf has to say about your Model 38130 on page 11.

Model Name Width Year of Mfg. Engine Mfg. Engine Model
38130 S200 20" 1979-1981 Tec. AH520

Fuel ratio Max. RPM Spark Plug Gap in.
32:1 4100-4500 Champion
RJ18YC .035

Yes, it has an air vane governor.

Here's a Tecumseh 2 stroke manual that covers the AH520.

View attachment 14233
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks bwdbrn, that manual helps out a bunch. I'm going to try adjusting the governor spring bra ket today and see if I can get the engine speed right, then fiddle with the adjustment screws. One question on the idle mix screw, do I hold the throttle at idle to adjust that or let the governor take it to its normal full throttle position since these never really " idle "? The manual doesn't really go into great detail there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ok, I think I got the speed about right. Couldn't get my multimeter to work on it, so I just went by ear. Noticed something weird though. I can turn the main mixture screw all the way in till it stops, and it'll still stay running, hardly stumbles. I know I have the screws in the right holes, so I'm not sure if its supposed to be like that or not. It does spit gas out the carb inlet if I turn it out to far, so I know its doing something, just seems weird.
 
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