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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Just found another toro with same engine for $40 the person says it idles low cause the choke needs adjusted when they go to mow it stalls. I figure if it's more intense than that I have spare parts. Should I do it? Says the carb is new, and selling cause he got a new mower for Father's day, and cause the choke needs adjusted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
That's what i am thinking. Is there a way to check the idle on a mower or do you go by the way it sounds? I know not to make it scream or I'll be in the same boat or worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I got to the guys house, and it barely started, and shut off. I still bought it though trusting him, and got it home to find out he was right with what he told me when I got there. When he replaced the Carb he didn't connect the springs back up right. I am replacing the extension spring, cause that was a little damaged causing it to rev higher. I do need to do other stuff to this mower, but I have the parts from the other so it works out. The spark plug is rusted bad, and the spark plug boot inside is damaged.

Other than that, and some rust on the deck all looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I have also been sick. Thinking about honing out the other engine, and selling it as is needing a piston, and rings. Or I might just go for it as a Winter project. Not sure yet. I still need to do research on how to figure out the right piston size, rings, and figure out how to put it together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Almost done honing, but can't find the specs for the tolerance on the piston to see if I can use the stock piston. Took 3 hours to get thus far, but still a couple slight scratches. I will continue until they are gone as well.
 

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That used piston looks to be in good shape. Both skirts are still smooth and it doesn't look like its been run hot. The hone job looks good. When you clean it, use Hot! water and Laundry soap (I use Tide) and scrub with a nylon brush (not a wire brush). Rinse and let it dry then part 2 begins. Use a white paper towel and some transmission fluid and wipe the bore down good. Then with a dry paper towel wipe again. Keep doing this until the dry towel comes back with no dirt on it.
Look for a good video on how to set ring end gaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Don't I need to measure the bore, and make sure that piston will be good? With the specs, and make sure the .10 rings will be good? Not sure how tolerant these engines are, but all the work I did I want it to last.
 

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Don't I need to measure the bore, and make sure that piston will be good
If the bore was for a standard piston and you honed to clean up, a standard piston should still fit, just a little looser. It is always good to measure it to make sure the bore isn't to big for the piston. Measure the piston skirt and then the bore should be measured front to back and side to side at the top, middle and bottom to make sure there isn't a tight spot or excessive clearance. If you don't have a dial bore gauge, you can get a general feel of skirt clearance using a feeler gauge.
As far as rings, I would check the rings that come with the used piston, in your bore. If the gaps aren't to wide, you might be able to use them. At the very least, use the used pistons 2nd and third ring (if gaps are good) and use the new .010 top ring and file fit the gap to spec. oil up the cylinder before you push the rings in to check. Final clean the block before assembly.
Ring choices:
ebay used piston - use rings the came with piston after checking in cylinder for wide end gaps
or
use ebay piston second and third ring and a new .010 top ring, file gap to fit.
or
use all new .010 top, middle and oil ring, must file to fit.
youtube ring fit video (link)
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Ok I just used the old piston inserted bottom first, and when it got near the rings wasn't much of a gap. Wasn't sure how bad some of those gauges were.

I bought the piston on ebay. Not sure if it comes with rings, and not sure what the gap specs are. I think I can rent a dial bore gauge if needed.

Does it matter how the piston goes back in when I am ready for that step? I know all the ring gaps need to be different spots. I did snap a photo before removing the old one incase it mattered.

Should I buy another connecting rod or is the old one good? Not sure how to tell.
 

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the crank journal should be smooth and polished. The rod journal should also be smooth and polished looking. Any scuff marks or grooves like an old record album is no good.
The ebay piston shows it comes with the original used rings. They maybe good to use. I would polish the ring faces with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper just to remove any dirt. check them in the bore and if the top gap is more than .010~.012, you might want to use a new .010 top ring and file fit it to the bore. If your rent a dial bore gauge get a micrometer to measure the piston with. You will calibrate the dial bore gauge with the measurement from the piston skirt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
What is the crank journal, and rod journal? Do I sand the rings with them on the piston or take them off to sand? Sorry about all the questions just never did anything like this before. I appreciate the help.
 

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crank journal is the part of the crank where the rod bolts on. Rod journal is where the rod splits to bolt around the crank journal.
You will have to remove them - carefully - to insert them into the bore to check the end gaps. Clean them before inserting them. Red color Scotch brite pads will buff them good also if there is no embedded material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 · (Edited)
I tried getting more pics of the scratches left in the cylinder wall, and noticed a chip out of the bottom of the cylinder wall. Is this engine toast? Nevermind I did some research, and noticed lots of people saying they have a 5/8" chip in the bottom of their cylinders and the engines run fine. They just say to deburr the edges. Just need to know if I should hone out the rest of the scratches? I am assuming I should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Not sure what I am doing wrong honing, but took another 3 hours, and can't get these other scratches out. I read if your fingernail catches they need gone, and my fingernail catches. They are smaller, but not gone yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Finally done honing. I used hot soapy water to clean it, and wiped with paper towel, and soaked it in wd40 to ensure no rust, and wiped clean again with paper towel. I can see some extremely small gouges hard to see with the naked eye.

Not sure if I should hone a little longer or move on.

I can't spot the issues in the pics I took. Like I said extremely small.
 

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sorry I haven't been online for a while. The phone company is doing a re-cable job a block from here and knock my phone / internet out since last Tuesday! It's like a rewind back to 1990!
Anyway, I think you hit a dead end. The cylinder has way to much taper to be useful. The top should have the same skirt clearance as what you have shown at the bottom. I would say the rings (even +.010 rings) and cylinder wouldn't last an hour if you put it together with the cylinder in that shape.:confused:
Start searching for a decent cylinder and use the parts you have gathered so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
sorry I haven't been online for a while. The phone company is doing a re-cable job a block from here and knock my phone / internet out since last Tuesday! It's like a rewind back to 1990!
Anyway, I think you hit a dead end. The cylinder has way to much taper to be useful. The top should have the same skirt clearance as what you have shown at the bottom. I would say the rings (even +.010 rings) and cylinder wouldn't last an hour if you put it together with the cylinder in that shape.:confused:
Start searching for a decent cylinder and use the parts you have gathered so far.

That stinks. Glad your internet and phone are back. Thanks for the update. I had a feeling, but wasn't sure if I could taper the bottom. Guess the honing tool had more pressure at the top than the bottom.
 
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