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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
I added oil to the piston, and it was hard to turn like it should be. Thought maybe the piston rings are bad, but they look good from what I can tell.

Are the scratches on the sides of the piston normal?
 

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I would roll the piston down and put a few ounces of oil on top of the piston slop it around on the bore and roll the engine over . Also, when you were rolling the engine over, you were going the wrong direction. That is important because it is easier to see if the valves are phased correctly to the piston motion. I was trying to "see it" but I am down with bad sinus problems. I watched it a couple of times and it looks close, even with my fuzzy mind.
The engine has been run low on oil and hot. The piston skirt is wiped out and the ring end gaps are way out. Measure the bore and see if ti is still stock diameter. What does the bore look like?
I can't tell if the valves are closing all the way, Put the crank, piston and cam back in Roll the engine over, park the piston on TDC, compression stroke (just after the intake valve shut) and shine a flashlight in the exhaust port. Look for light leaking out from under the valve head on the top side. It might be easier to see with the shop lights off. On the intake side, remove the intake manifold from the engine and shine the light into the port and check for leakage. Another check is, with the piston on TDC as above^^^ and prop the engine up with the head side down but you can see the valve heads, (10° or 20°), squirt WD40 in each port and see if it runs out the combustion chamber side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Oh didn't know it mattered which way the engine rolled. How do I measure the Bore? with a tape measure? I just got pictures, and it seems cut up. I can feel the scratches with my hands.

I'll hold off on putting the engine back together, cause of the marks inside the bore.

Hope your sinuses get better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Thats what I figured. I am looking at honing tools, and than how do I figure out the piston to use? I've seen youtube videos where it looks like they use the same size pistons after honing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Couldn't I do this?
Fill the cylinder with a thin layer of JB weld, and put the piston through, hone it, and use a piston of the same size? If so would this piston be good? Tecumseh Piston Assembly Rings Connecting Rod 40004 36777 36777A 32610a 40006 | eBay

JB weld is amazing stuff. I cut 2 holes in my cars frame to access stuff in the past, cause it must've been in an accident, and the frame is welded which made it hard to get to stuff the way it was welded. Anyway I used JB weld, and a piece of metal smoothed it out after it dried, and painted it. Can barely tell. It passes inspection, and still attached to the car 2 years later.
 

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No, JB weld wouldn't make it if at all. The .010" piston is part number 40045, comes with rings.
You could try a light honing to see where it gets you. You would then need the stock size piston and I would get .010"" oversize rings and then fit them to specification for ring end gaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Where can I get the 40045 piston with rings cheap? When you say I need the stock size piston do you mean the one I took out? Or do I need 2 pistons? How do you fix the rings to specs for the ring end gaps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
To be honest my problem is I need to buy a torque wrench $20 piston clamp, piston and rings, and $20 for the honing tool.

Thinking about selling the engine as is, and buying another.
 

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Where can I get the 40045 piston with rings cheap? When you say I need the stock size piston do you mean the one I took out? Or do I need 2 pistons? How do you fix the rings to specs for the ring end gaps?
Sorry about that - still feeling not good
option
A) new .010" 40045 - I couldn't find one
B) hone block and new standard size piston with .010" oversize rinds fitted to block
C) good used short block in good condition or good used block and new piston
D) new block and standard piston
There are you tube videos on how to file ring end gaps.
 

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you have two different links to ebay. one for a short block for $39.99 and one for just the cylinder for $84.69.
The 34.99 is a briggs unit and you don't want that. The other one, just the cylinder block is reasonable. He will accept an offer, I'd throw him a low number. But before you do that calculate shipping to see how much that will add to it.And, you will have to buy a new standard size piston. Ca-ching, Ca-ching, Ca-ching, -it adds up quick
Thinking about selling the engine as is, and buying another.
Always an option. Make sure you hear it run if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I talked to a maintenance guy at work, and he buys lawn mower engines for $10 at a junk yard. Just not sure how to tell if it's a Briggs or what company makes it. I'd like to try and get the same engine so if the piston is good I have the parts to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
That link on eBay for the cylinder was $30 something and it jumped to $80 something. I don't mind trying that route, but what piston would be needed for that? Also how do I know the cylinder is good?
 

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That link on eBay for the cylinder was $30 something and it jumped to $80 something
He will take offers. Have you used the link in the shipping description and calculated shipping? That might shock you also.
How do you know if the cylinder is good? You don't. If you were to get it, you would need a "standard bore" piston. It is part number 40044.
By the time you get the block at $85+shipping ($25?) + piston $55 your in it $165. I just looked at the used pistons on ebay. I won't buy any of them. None of them show the front and rear thrust faces (the non-wrist pin "sides"), which are the most important. If they could show both thrust faces and they are near pristine, then I would consider them.
If your friend buys used mowers, he should be able to find you a match. All he has to do is check the motor tag for the model number
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
So the tecumseh Lv120-361560b 6.5 horsepower I was just sent an offer from the seller for $37.20 shipped. Not sure where you got the piston number 40044. The parts are the exact same from what I am looking at, but not sure what part number on the parts list is for the piston and rings. It's confusing.
 

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sorry - the piston & ring set part number is 40027.
back on post #11 there was a link posted that points to the incorrect parts list. I didn't catch it till just now. You need the parts list for your serial number which falls in the 250000001 - 250999999 range. It calls the engine an LV195. But, it looks like the block and pistons are the same. Please double check as the sinus medicine I'm taking still has me a little foggy.
LEV120 block 37645
LV195 block 37465
LEV120 piston and rings 40027
LV195 piston and rings 40027.
As far as the ebay block $37.20 seems to be a good deal. There is some scaring on the front side of the bore. That can be taken out with a light hone job. You need to do that anyway to break the "glaze" in the cylinder so the new rings will seat.

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Yea your right. Not sure how that happened. Atleast the parts I bought are correct. Still planning on seeing the junk yard selection, and seeing if I can find another toro that don't run to see if I can get a running mower.
 
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