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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My toro won't start. I replaced the carburetor, and gas is new. Spark plug is sparking, and thought for sure I flooded the engine, but spark plug was dry. Air filter also new.

What else should I check or try?
 

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Remove the air cleaner and look inside the carb to see if the choke blade is shut fully. if the plug is dry, try spraying some starting fluid or carb cleaner into the carb (remove air cleaner) and see if it fires.
keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Carb blade is closed. I noticed a gasket was missing after spraying more carb cleaner. Made a gasket for that area, and no more leaks. Still not starting. Spark plug smelled like gas, and carb cleaner.

I did notice the more I pulled the more slack I was having with the pull cord. I'm assuming when I tighten that slack up she'll fire right up?
 

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When you pull the rope, does it have good resistance? Usually, you can feel a "hard spot" when it hits compression and then somewhat easier, but consistent resistance through the rest of the stroke.
If it has good spark and did not start on carb cleaner, you may be looking at a timing issue. How far can you tear into it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its been a while since I used a rip cord to start a mower. I forget how it should feel. Definately some resistance though. The following video is me moving the flywheel by hand, cause I already removed the rip cord, and other parts.
I also attached pics of the flywheel key. Looks to me like it might've been a little off, but am not 100% sure that's the issue. If it is the timing I can do it just need a video or help getting to the timing. I've done Timing on a 2003 chevy cavailer with no special tools so I am sure I can do this. That was 2 chains that needed aligned perfectly.
 

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I watched your video and it looks like, at the very beginning, the spark plug is installed in the head. If true, you shouldn't be able to spin it over by hand that easy. At some point you should come up on compression and it would be visible in the video. If the compression is low, I would suspect a hung valve. Good thing was I can hear the valve cover breather honking when you turned it over.(y):)
The flywheel key looks in tact and if anything, as long as the spark was "good" to start with, I would buff the rust of the magnets and the backside (mounting side) of the coil and reassemble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the reply. While waiting I got bored so I ripped it apart. I found some broken plastic, and can't find a marking on the smaller gear. I am assuming its supposed to line up with the spot for the key, but I will wait for a reply, and see if its possible to fix this on the cheap.

When I was screwing the nut back on to hit with a hammer to get the self propelled pulley off I was having issues getting it tightened back on, and not sure if I can get it back off.

Here is a video, and some pics.
 

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The blond / yellow plastic is from the governor, you will need a new one. Pull the cam out and look for damage on the lobes and lifter. I am wondering is the dark gray part came from it. Is the cam plastic / steel combo?
As far as cam timing, you are correct in looking for alignment marks. When you rotate the crank to where the cam dot meets the crank gear, there should be a dot or something. I need to find a service manual to see if there is a procedure. What is the model / serial number off the engine.
ps - I have to leave for a bit. I'll be back around this evening, (thanks for the videos and pics - it helps alot.
 

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Pull the cam out. You will have to roll the crank over until both valves are shut / TDC compression (remove the spark plug makes it easier). The cam assembly is part number 37460. You can find good used cam/lifters/oil pumps on Ebay for less than $20 if needed. Just put "Tecumseh 37460" in the search.
Also, the governor assm is part number 30591 and you will also need the spool (thimble) part number 30588A. You can get brand new OEM gear for less than $15 and the spool for around $7 - usually from the same seller and with free shipping. It appears the pieces you found look to be off the flyweights that were on the governor gear assemble.
ps - sump gasket 37609
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Do you mean remove the crankshaft? Just wondering, cause it seems good. I'm not a pro when it comes to this stuff though so if i need to remove it i will. Thanks for all the help. I have all the parts on watch for now on ebay.
 

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Do you mean remove the crankshaft
no - camshaft. I think you said in the video that you didn't know how to remove it. Also, there is a mechanism on the back side of the gear. I would urge to to make sure it is in good shape.
PS I based the part numbers off the model you supplied. please double check as there are several engine variations. As far as I can tell, they all have used the same part numbers for the cam / governor.
two sets of eyes are better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
no - camshaft. I think you said in the video that you didn't know how to remove it. Also, there is a mechanism on the back side of the gear. I would urge to to make sure it is in good shape.
PS I based the part numbers off the model you supplied. please double check as there are several engine variations. As far as I can tell, they all have used the same part numbers for the cam / governor.
two sets of eyes are better.
Thanks. The camshaft seems good that mechanism works. I was looking at the parts, and the ones I am watching look like the right ones. Thanks again for all the help.

I made another video, cause the camshaft is getting pushed into the side of the engine when being spun around. I don't have a lot of time right now to remove the bolts on the other side of the lifters to see whats behind those bolts.
Probably going to have to look at it more next weekend or Monday.

I found the parts I just need to remove the bolts to find out if they are bent or damaged I guess, but I am assuming they need replaced by watching the gear hit the side of the engine.
OEM Tecumseh LEV120 6.5HP Intake Exhaust Valve Springs Lifters 37289 36780 27241
 

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That is because the cam is not seated in the sump cover bearing. The movement is cause by the force required to open the valves against the springs. You would not realize the movement if the sump cover was in place. Cam looks good to reuse
 
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