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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, looking for some advice. Was mowing along on flat lever ground and the mower just quit. Like I had hit the kill switch. Has plenty of gas and a fairly recent plug.

The firs thing I did was pull the bowl on the carb and clean the holes on the bolt in the bottom.


I then pulled the spark plug and cleaned it and tried the spark test by holding it against the cylinder and pulling it through. I got no spark at all. I pulled the coil off and took it with me to the Toro dealer to see if they could test it.

The Toro dealer had zero interest in helping me trouble shoot this even though I would be buying the parts there like I have for the last 4 years. Kind of disappointing. Also he said you can't test the spark like that. He said you will never get a spark holding it up against the eng. block even if everything is working fine. Is that true?

So looking for ideas on how to proceed troubleshooting this.

It also has a fairly new air filter.

Thanks in advance,

Scott
 

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Hi Scott! It sure sounds like a heat related magneto failure. When it cools off bet it has weak spark. You might want to get a inline spark tester. Fairly cheap to buy. Best way to check spark!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Eric! Didn't know the spark tester existed. Just ordered one off Amazon, should be here in two days.

Just to be sure, magneto and coil is the same thing?

Also, is there a rule of thumb on how close to adjust the magneto to the magnet?
 

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Hi, coil/magneto is same thing. Rule of thumb is match book lid. Usually .010-.014 thousands.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, thanks again. And I assume that's for both sides? When I took it off this morning one side was nearly touching and the other side had a visible gap.
 

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Scott, that gap sure was wrong! Don't think that is your main issue. Check that spark, bet it is bad. We have this all the time with original Briggs opposed twin magnetos!
 

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I'm on my second one on my Briggs single 6 hp. Toro Super Recycler lawnmower from early 2000 even though it does not have that many total hours on it. Probably less then 200 hours.
 

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Sure sounds like a coil failure. just bringing the coil to them there is no way for them to test it, so dont get too down on the dealer
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sure sounds like a coil failure. just bringing the coil to them there is no way for them to test it, so dont get too down on the dealer
Thanks, that's good to know. I was just a little disappointed in their total lack of interest in helping me in any way other than checking it in to their shop and letting it sit for a week before they could get to it.

I've ordered the inline spark tester as well as another coil. Other than the kill switch possibly being messed up is that pretty much the only things that will cause no spark?
 

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had that happen on two different mowers over the years, moving along just fine then they just shut off...both times it was the coil, I did the plug to engine block test , no visible spark , changed the coil and running fine..as long as your getting fuel I think that should be it
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cool beans. Maybe I'll be up and running in a couple of days when the coil gets here. I'll let everyone know the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Question - so the kill switch is spring loaded in the "Run" position. And you push it down and hold it down until the engine stops.

What are you doing when you push it down, are you completing the circuit which makes the engine die or are you opening the circuit which makes the engine die?
 

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Not positive on yours but all the small Briggs engines I have your grounding out the primary winding of the coil to shut it off.
 

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Think Mark is right, think it should ground circuit. You could try to fire it with kill wire off so it would not kill engine. You should rig a wire up to coil or something so you CAN kill it if hard to reach ,like jumper wire!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
SUCCESS!

Yep, it was the coil that I got for $33 that the Toro dealer was going to charge me $120 for. Actually I had two things going on. While trouble shooting the coil I noticed my kill switch looked wonky. It's normally spring loaded in the run position. I noticed mine had no spring loaded position, it could just move back and forth. And using an OHM neither position was going to stop the eng. So I got that changed out while waiting for my coil.

Who knows, maybe i broke it while troubleshooting everything else.

Put the new coil in, used two business cards together to gap it, and zip zam and zowie it fired right up on the first pull.

You guys are great, thanks for the advice.

Scott

McKinney, TX
 

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Your welcome my friend!! �� Thank God it was an easy fix!
 
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