[tug]

Hi guys,
Great forum you got going here. I have a 2001 Murray model 40507x8c, 12.5 Briggs Widebody LT. This is my first post, and I've already picked up a lot of helpful info and links from everyone here.
I bought this tractor to move my 18.5' flats boat and 16' camp trailer around, which it does no problem. The difficulty starts when I try to stop. Sometimes I have brakes and sometimes (most) I don't. I looked up my model # on the Murray site and printed the motion drive parts section, but I can't find anything that is actually labelled brakes. I know this rig has a "Clutch/Brake" but nothing jumps out at me that looks like a brake.
I am hopeing somebody here can point me in the right direction before I start needlessly tearing off parts.
Thanks!

 

[Austen]

Welcome!

I would say that the linkages need to be cleaned and lubricated as they are probably sticking. I had this same issue with my lawn tractor a few years ago where the brakes would only work some of the time. After cleaning the linkages and lubricating them, the brakes now activate like they are supposed to.

Here is a site that has some links to microfiches for the machine: Parts and Diagrams for Murray 40507x8C - Lawn Tractor (2001))

 

[tug]

Stop

Thanks Austen.
Can you tell me what part number or numbers that are brakes? I have that diagram and it just doesn't make any sense to me. Where are the brakes? Or, what part number(s) need lubricant? I just need some place to start. I'm pulling it into the garage tomorrow.
Thanks
PS: have you ever seen anyone put a trailer hitch on the front of one of these?

 

[Austen]

Thanks Austen.
Can you tell me what part number or numbers that are brakes? I have that diagram and it just doesn't make any sense to me. Where are the brakes? Or, what part number(s) need lubricant? I just need some place to start. I'm pulling it into the garage tomorrow.
Thanks
PS: have you ever seen anyone put a trailer hitch on the front of one of these?

It show's on this diagram Parts and Diagrams for Murray 40507x8C - Lawn Tractor (2001)

part# 7400256ZMA (# 28 on the mircofiche) as being the clutch/brake lever assembly. I am not familiar with this particular machine, however, I would suggest lifting the machine up if you have the means to, in a safe manner of course, which will allow you to access and inspect the underside easier. I would follow the brake lever down underneath the tractor and from there you should be able to see the linkages/springs etc that are connected to the lever.

Once you have found them, spray the joints/pivets etc down with some lubricant such as WD40, then work the brake pedal, spray again repeating the process a few times. In fact if you have a friend, have them work the brake pedal while you are looking underneath it so that you can inspect what's going on. This will also come in handy while you are spraying it down with lubricant.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Mark / Ohio]

You have a disc brake on it next to the tranny:

Looks like the caliper that clamps the pad(s) on to the disc is at the bottom edge. Movement of the lever either for or aft seen here in front of the disc should push the pads against it. It's also possible that you have an oil seal leaking and getting some oil on the disc. If so, that would give it some strange operating characteristics. Actual disc and pad(s) need to be clean outside of the usual brake dust that accumulates over time. If the disc shows signs of scoring of the metal that probably means you have no pad left.

 

[wh55]

the disc and pads are usually considered part of the transmission..you might have to locate your part numbers in the transmission section, i know cause i went thru this a few years ago..my no brake problem was like yours and it ended up being the disc its self, the splines inside the disc sheared off, the shaft was fine...i would check both when you get it apart..if just changing the disc, it's no big deal now if the shaft is gone then that involves tearing apart the tranny to change out

 

[tug]

Thanks for the help guys! After I cleaned what looked like 10 years of dirt, grass, grease and cigarette butts from the rig I found the worlds smallest disc brake. Cleaned it and the linkage and springs and it works pretty good now. Has a little bit of a hard time with the 3,000# trailer, but that's to be expected. The disc is pitted but not scored. Any idea where I could get new pads? Thanks again.

 

[fixer]

your murry "lawn tractor brakes" was not designed to stop a 3000# load. the pads are only 1"Lx3/8w x2 aginst a 2' disc and are spring acuated by extention spring part #56 on your parts diag. your are asking your lawn tractor to do more than it was designed to do. good luck be safe

 

[tug]

Thanks Fixer,
I know I'm WAY overdoing that poor little braking system and the fact that it stops my camp trailer at all is a testiment to how strong this "tug" is.
Do you know where I can get a new set of pads? The Murray site doesn't even show the brake seperately, they just list it with the transaxlle and say call a central parts distributor. Also this bad boy doesn't have a parking brake. It must have been removed along with the front end and hood. I will post some pics when I figure out how to do that easily.

 

[Brad]

That looks very similar to the trans on my John Deere STX38. There is actually an adjustment on the brakes that will tighten them up. See if that helps out a bit before trying to hunt down new pads.

 

[tug]

your murry "lawn tractor brakes" was not designed to stop a 3000# load. the pads are only 1"Lx3/8w x2 aginst a 2' disc and are spring acuated by extention spring part #56 on your parts diag. your are asking your lawn tractor to do more than it was designed to do. good luck be safe

Somebody over on the Casita forum suggested that I mount a seven way plug on the tug and wire it to a switch. When I throw the switch the trailer brakes activate, using the trailer brakes to stop itself. Sounds like a plan.