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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all,

I'm posting on behalf of my elderly neighbor. I'm trying to help him solve an issue he is having with his mower. It had been working great and now suddenly now it won't start unless we disconnect the red wire (has the open wire connector clip/half moon) from the grounding post on the engine block.

We've gone so far as to disconnect the neutral safety switch wires, to try and trace the problem. It seems to be the 3/4 inch thick round module that is bolted under the metal cover near the gear shift. We're assuming it is some sort of safety switch relay?

Any help would be greatly appreciated so that I can better assist my elderly neighbor.

Regards,

Joe T.
Honesdale, PA
 

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Welcome Joe! :)

If you could possibly get a photo of the module and/or a complete tractor model & serial number I might be able to do some digging on the net and come up with something. Also any numbers printed on the module might be helpful.

How many wires plug into the module?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Series 6 Safety Switch Update

Mark,

Thanks for the reply.... my neighbor and I really appreciate it!

Here is info right off the fly wheel/pull cord cover:

Model- 281707

Type- 0162 01

Code- 88041311

I've attached photos of the safety switch compartment inside (showing the module), the engine cover and the tractor itself.

Let me know if I can get anything else to assist.

Thanks again for your response... nice knowing someone is out there that might know something more about this issue.

Regards,

Joe
Honesdale, PA
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mark,

I didn't see any markings on the module itself.

I disconnected the neutral safety switch wires (2 that you can see in the picture) and made sure they were clean connections. I also left them off while trying to start the tractor. I was trying to isolate the issue. With the clip wire still hooked to the grounding stud on the engine block, spark still flew and tractor died. As soon as I pulled wire connector off, it was fine. So it is either the module gone bad or there is another short somewhere else in the wiring. Seems odd that it would suddenly do this so suddenly. Starter switch/key starts motor fine without wire hooked. If the key/switch was the cause, would it still start the motor with wire disconnected? I had Charlie (my neighbor) try to run the tractor with safety wire off. He said it ran fine, shifted and drove fine. He said he engaged blade once and it ran fine. Then shut off blade and back on and then the deck would not engage. Now I don't know if the safety came back to bite on the deck working too or did he just throw the belt? I'm going over this week to check it out. Ultimately I'd prefer to completely fix the safety issue as I'd prefer not to let him run this without safety mechanisms in tact.

Thanks again!

Joe
 

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I found a parts diagram. They are calling it an interlock module. See page 30 & 31 of the .pdf file at the link below:

http://dl.owneriq.net/b/bbe28306-aefe-3934-3588-ceadaf5f3ed5.pdf

Then looking at page 86 at the link below it looks to cross over to a general replacement kit:

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=aheruJvLlSZk

Snapper part number 6-3064 (For Briggs engine)

Still cannot find out for sure what is inside the module.

You mentioned disconnecting the switches to try and locate a bad one. That would create an open condition. Looking at page 30 at the first link it appears the switches are run a series circuit by the wire colors. So in that case they would likely have to be all shorted for the engine to run.

Really your best bet would be to get a multimeter and test the resistance across each switch when opened and closed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Interlock Module

Mark,

Wondering if I missed something? Both links point to the same document....

I didn't see the first item you were referring to in your post.

I did see what I thought was the "interlocking" module on Charlie's tractor.... which I think is different than the device/component I am pointing to in my picture (or is the one you posted a replacement or substitute to the current one?

Also to note would be that the tractor runs with the "half moon" connector removed from the grounding stud on the engine block. It doesn't run when it is connected which would mean there should be short somewhere in the wiring???, which I'm trying to trace.

I'm going to try your recommendation to test the connections while "open" and "closed" to see what it shows.

Thanks for the info.... we certainly appreciate your efforts!

Regards,

Joe and Charlie
 

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Mark,

Wondering if I missed something? Both links point to the same document....

I didn't see the first item you were referring to in your post.
Opps! Sorry about that! :eek: We'll try this one again. Starting page 30 is what I thought might be useful:

http://dl.owneriq.net/b/bbe28306-aefe-3934-3588-ceadaf5f3ed5.pdf

I did see what I thought was the "interlocking" module on Charlie's tractor.... which I think is different than the device/component I am pointing to in my picture (or is the one you posted a replacement or substitute to the current one?
Yes, the replacement kit does look different compared to the one pictured in the link above.

Also to note would be that the tractor runs with the "half moon" connector removed from the grounding stud on the engine block. It doesn't run when it is connected which would mean there should be short somewhere in the wiring???, which I'm trying to trace.
Still no luck finding an actual schematic of the interlock module. But I'm suspecting a "short" through all the switches is what tells the module to keep the other wire your disconnecting an "open" circuit. If that turns out to be the case, even if the switches are good, an open or broken wire anyplace between the switches could cause a no start condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Interlocking Module

Got it! #16 IS.... YES... what I think is the culprit. The wire going back to the engine, as listed in the schematic, shows the "half moon" wire connector that I get good results when disconnecting it from the grounding stud.

I'm going to do a better job at tracing the wires in the entire circuit, to ensure there aren't any bare wires that have become exposed.

Any idea where we can get a replacement?

Thanks!

Joe and Charlie
 

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...Any idea where we can get a replacement?...
Personally I go to my local shops first. We still have a couple small shops here I wandered around in with dad 30-40 years ago. :cool:

According to a couple online companies the newest number is snapper 7063064 for Briggs engines. Sears is showing it too. Outside of ebay they all seem to be in the $40-$50 range for it.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/7063064/0071/130

Still best though to see if a local guy can verify those numbers. They might even have a New Old Stock part laying around yet and a way to test your old one. ;)
 
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