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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a nice condition Sears shredder with a 6 hp Tecumseh, model 143226032. No Spark when I got it. Checked the plug first, it was ok. Picked up a new coil, condenser, plug and points. Replaced everything. My spark plug tester indicates the system is working but I cant get a spark on the plug( tried several known good plugs). Double checked the gap on plug and points. What am I missing? Thanks
 

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The air gap should be the width of a business card. Otherwise, it sounds like you've covered all your bases. Maybe somebody else has an idea.

I've used these on old engines to replace the points and condenser. Austen turned me onto them after he posted his success stories with them.

Nova II ignition module. They're available from a lot of different places. This one came up first when I Googled it.

http://www.amazon.com/ELECTRONIC-TRANSISTORIZED-IGNITION-MODULE-NOVA/dp/B007BI6FW6
 

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mmm.... I think you got too many numbers in your engine model number there... sears/craftsman engine number should be 143-XXXXX (5 digits following the 143-prefix.) so I can't figure out what engine you've got.

anyway... does it have a dead-man brake? (kill switch?)
if it's 70s vintage it should not, but IF it does: check your kill wire (wire leading from coil to switch) and check the contact on the switch. I've had those things give me fits many times.

this one is way out there, but: my buddy's dad hassled with a Tecumseh engine - long ago - and finally learned that there were some engines produced (this would have been 1960s-1970s) with (are you ready for this one?) weak magnets in the flywheel, which prevented the engine from starting. go figure.
again, that one is a really remote possibility, but if you've checked everything else and by some strange chance happen to have another Tecumseh flywheel laying about you might try that.

of course, you've already checked for the obvious culprits: bad condenser, oil/grease in the magneto, some wire grounding out where it's not supposed to....?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Went to double check and took a pic but do not know how to load it to this page. Model number is correct, serial number 1218R
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No kill switch, no wiring outside of the firing circuit. Everything is clean, no grease, rust or dust where it shouldn't be.
Another question; does my spark plug tester require much less voltage to light? It is an inline type with the indicator light encased in clear plastic, not an open air type that lets you actually see a spark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got fire!

Saturday morning, Removed everything; flywheel, condenser, points, plug and coil. Cleaned everything again! Reassembled. Regapped plug and points to proper specs. Lightly sanded magnets and magneto. Reassembled. Used a drill to spin it over, seven or eight revolutions before I saw the first spark (normal?)
Installed the plug and gave it a small squirt of starting fluid, popped after a few revs. Alas the head gasket is shot. Took off the head to check out the gasket only to find the cylinder wall is terribly scored. Don't think a hone will clean it up.
Is it worth the time and expense to have it bored to the next size? Do they even make oversize rings for these?
Or am I better off replacing the entire motor/block?
Input greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Four cycle,
As I had it apart this morning I realized that it has removable magnets in the flywheel, although it may be a moot point, do you know if the magnets only are available?
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I do not.
as I recall, the only way buddy's dad could get fire out of the thing was to spin it (as you did) with another motor. (drill?)
sounds like you've got other issues that might make it not worthwhile trying to fix it.

I think I'd be looking at Craigslist for an old mower with a compatible engine. Don't know where you're located, but they're pretty easy to find here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the input, already checking CL and ebay and Tulsa Engine Warehouse. Question that comes to mind is at what HP's will I find a compatible bolt pattern for my deck? Or do I need to stick with a similar model number?
I used to work part time at a local scrap yard, still find gems there occasionally, it's a couple blocks away from where I work so a daily stop may be in order to check out the new arrivals.
Thanks again.
next time I'll post in the proper sub-forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
One more question (maybe). I see that many Tecumseh engines have a alphabetic prefix to their model numbers. Does mine have such an identifier or is it all in the model number I have? i.e. 143-226032 serial 1218R.
Thanks
 

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that engine scrap metal. i would start looking on cl for a power washer with a bad pump, only reason i say power washer is because the vertical engine on power washers always have cast iron flywheels
 

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thank you, Grunt.
my interchange list didn't have that Sears number in it - hence my comment above.
hezandry, I'm not familiar with that particular engine model, but my guess is that the mounting flange bolt pattern might well be the same as later model engines.
if not, a sharp 3/8" drill bit will usually take care of that issue.
of greater import is output shaft diameter, output shaft length, keyed or splined output shaft, cut-outs for woodruff (half-moon) keys - those are the things that will make or break an engine swap. (the other issue that will complicate things is which side the kill switch is located on, but in your case that doesn't apply.)

and yes, all Tecumsehs have an alpha/numeric identification system.
the 143-XXXXX is the Sears/Craftsman number.

just a note:
I see repeatedly comments to the effect that Tecumseh engines are hard to find parts for. I'm always puzzled by that one, because I generally have no problem getting parts for them, although I'm not generally working on antiques. Sometimes I'll have to wait a week for a part to arrive, but between the two local lawnmower shops I deal with, I don't usually run into any big problems special-ordering stuff for Tecumsehs if they don't already have the item in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Thanks Grunt, Found one place that says"Call for pricing" everywhere else says "no longer available. Is there a list online that I can use to cross reference? Two blocks on ebay models 143.956000 and 142.99604, wonder if they're interchangable.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Four cycle, I plan on following multiple avenues with this, Would like to keep original, so will be checking on the cost for next oversize or replacing the block, piston, rings and connecting rod. Complete swap would be last choice but will do so if other options are prohibitive.
Finding a block will be the issue, going to post in the classifieds here.
Thanks for the help.
 
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