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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I rebuilt a leaf blower briggs model 205432 and installed new rings and did the valves. There was no ridge on the cylinder so I honed the cylinder gently and so I went with standard rings. After I started the engine it was still burning oil even at idle.
 

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The rings may not be seating quite yet and need a bit of run time to fully seat.

I'd say run it a bit more while varying the rpm's and see if it clears up and go from there. :ThumbUp:
Also an FYI and maybe you are not already doing so, but don't run synthetic oil in it during the break in period.
 

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just let it run at 75%-to full throttle with no load or a very light load to allow the rings to seat properly, then change the oil at 5 hours
 

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If you read the Briggs factory repair manual it will tell you stock rings will never seat. You must use Briggs chrome rings. Went though exactly this on a 5 HP briggs a number of years ago. I did nothing but take the stock new rings out and replaced with the chrome rings and the oil use stopped within a few minutes. Roger
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The person told me that it burned oil quite a bid so today he came and told me it is a lot better since I put the rings in.
I am rebuilding another briggs 205432 engine and I bought a standard connecting rod for it. The crank miked fine and I installed the rod cap so the oil hole is toward the cam shaft. The engine turns over a little hard after I torqued the rod bolts to 100 inch pounds is that normal until it brakes in?
 

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There shouldn't really be any resistance to turning in the big end bearing. Did you install the bearing cap the same way it came out? That's really important to correct fit. Also, did you check the crank for out-of-roundness by taking two measurements at a 90 degree angle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There shouldn't really be any resistance to turning in the big end bearing. Did you install the bearing cap the same way it came out? That's really important to correct fit. Also, did you check the crank for out-of-roundness by taking two measurements at a 90 degree angle?
The engine threw a rod so I polished the crank up and it miked fine and I bought a new rod and piston and I assume the hole in the bottom rod cap goes toward the cam gear?
 

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I believe that's the correct orientation for the bearing cap. Sometimes, you have to try it a couple times to get it just right. Also, make sure that you torque the rod bolts evenly; otherwise, you might damage the part or lock it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I believe that's the correct orientation for the bearing cap. Sometimes, you have to try it a couple times to get it just right. Also, make sure that you torque the rod bolts evenly; otherwise, you might damage the part or lock it up.
Yes I tried it a couple times and the engine runs well. I did torque the bolts after I tightened the rod evenly thanks for the help.
 
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