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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll start a thread over hear as it might be a bit more fitting.

I'm restoring a Honda HR215SM and have decided to polish some of the metal parts. I started with the rear wheel adjusters a couple of days ago. Here's the before, during and after pictures of them.

They started out looking like the one on the right. I used steel wool on the one on the left.



Today I used my rotary tool with a buffing wheel on the one on the right in this picture.



I'm pretty pleased with the way things are going so far, but this is my first experience with polishing metal bits like this.

Question was raised by Five Points over in the "What Did You Do To Your Lawn Mower Today" thread if I was going to clear coat them.

Like I said, this is my first experience at this, so I'd like to hear from those who have experience at polishing metal. What sorts of polishing compounds are best, do you use a polishing wheel on a bench grinder, and do you use clear coat to preserve the shine when done?

Thanks up front, because I want to learn from those who are in the know.
 

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This is a kit I that I got thats super handy for small items that you can use with a drill or die grinder. Comes with a guide to show you which abrasives to use for different applications.

Eastwood Buff Kit and Metal Protect 14 OZ Aerosol


http://www.eastwood.com/diamond-clear-gloss-set.html?reltype=2&parent_id=3446

I can't afford one of the bigger buffers yet but I'll be patient.
If you don't protect the polished metal it won't take long to start rusting. There are a variety of clear coats you can get in bomb cans. I believe there are even clear powders (powder coating) that you can have applied.

There are other brands and I'm not promoting these but they are just simply ones that I have used and have had a small amount of success with. :)
 

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I use, steel wool, scotch brite, buffing wheel on the bench grinder, dremel, rotery air tool

protect with anything from a polish/wax, sharkhide, cleat coat
 

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I was told not to use steel wool on aluminum because small particles of steel get caught up in it and will rust . For other metals I use my mouse palm sander with super fine paper and then polish . Or if too bad I scuff it , primer it then use cad color paint .. or if doing an engine aluminum color paint.
 

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I was told not to use steel wool on aluminum because small particles of steel get caught up in it and will rust . For other metals I use my mouse palm sander with super fine paper and then polish . Or if too bad I scuff it , primer it then use cad color paint .. or if doing an engine aluminum color paint.
You are correct, its a dissimilar metal corrosion. it causes the aluminum to oxidize and pit with that white powdery corrosion. Just like using steel rivets on aluminum or visa-versa. best to use scotch brite or an aluminum oxide type of material on aluminum.
 

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You are correct, its a dissimilar metal corrosion. it causes the aluminum to oxidize and pit with that white powdery corrosion. Just like using steel rivets on aluminum or visa-versa. best to use scotch brite or an aluminum oxide type of material on aluminum.
I was told you can use steel wool if you go over it with with the scotch bright to catch the particles ... kind of double work though.
 

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Normally a wire brush wheel attached to a 60 year old motor to get rid of rust and repaint or a coating of WD40, motor oil or some other special chemical rust preventive if not repainting. But my goal is generally more toward slowing down further rust rather then making it pretty. Everything I have gets used so it is only a matter time time until it looks worn again anyway. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
:mow: <-------------- New?? :D
:cool:bravo: I like it! Now, if we could just get something like that with a snowblower over on the snowblower forum.:D

Thanks for all the good tips guys. I'm going to pick up a can of that spray on stuff.

:ThumbUp:This is why I like hanging out around here, I learn something new all the time.
 
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