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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Mainly I just want to reseal this 11hp Briggs and Stratton engine on this Snapper Comet 26 that I just got. What does it take to get this engine fully apart where you can replace all the seals and gaskets that come in the factory gasket kit? How hard is it to remove the engine from the rear engine rider Snapper? I'm wondering what's involved with getting the crank pulley off so you can pull the engine out? I just want to get all the external engine covers blasted and painted because they're all rusty. I see oil all over the engine. So I want to do a reseal on it. The engine actually runs good and doesn't smoke. What kind of special mower specific tools are needed to do this? I've removed and rebuilt the 400 in my Dodge Charger and it does run, so I have some knowledge of doing engine, just never tackled a lawn mower engine.
 

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If you've done an engine in an automobile, then the Briggs would be a piece of cake. First place to start is to get a shop manual that covers that engine.
 

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:ditto: Replacing the gaskets in a lawn mower engine is no big deal. If you have the model/type/code number, it's easy to find the right manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I got the information. It's a model 252707, type 020801, code 82062911. I downloaded the parts list and owner's guide from Briggs and Stratton but where do I download the repair manual? They told me it was built on June 29, 1982.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I see that by the model code on my Briggs 11hp which is model 252707 it use to have a starter and alternator. But it has a pull start with a cover that may not be from the same engine originally. It says Magnetron on the sticker in the center of the pull start cover. Is that correct? I see where the starter use to go. What makes for an easy pull start to start right up? Mine takes a few hard pulls but it does eventually fire up and run good. If it's too much to add electric start to my Comet 26 what can I do to make the pull start easier to fire up? Carb rebuild? New cord? Does anything under the cover need to be lubed to make it easier to pull?
 

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Do you mean that the engine resists being turned over? That would indicate mechanical binding of some kind, either in the starter mechanism, or in the internals of the engine.
 

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I have the exact engine you have, they had both a pull start and electric start. Your engine should have a generator under the fly wheel but not the alternator (used on tractors with lights). I am guessing the starter is just missing, they bolt on the side of the block with two bolts. If you go through the link I posted above you will see the engine with the fly wheel off showing the generator and the finished pics showing the starter.

These engines are called "Easy Spin" by Briggs. The have a compression relief to make them easier to pull start. These engines still take a bit of grunt to pull start but it shouldn't be too bad. If the valve clearances are too loose the compression release won't work and it will be nearly impossible to pull over.

The magnetron ignition means its solid state and does not have points. That is correct for you engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So now researching the engine a little I'm pretty confident I can do a basic rebuild/check of the engine and internal components. However, there's no manual on how to actually remove the engine from the back of this Snapper Comet 26. I talked to former lawn mower repair mechanic and he said that is probably the hardest part of working on a riding mower. So what holds the pull on the crankshaft? Is it pressed on and does it have a crank bolt in the center? Do they make a puller or tool to make it simple to remove? Maybe I will tackle this in the off-season when I don't need a mower anymore but I want to gather info for now.
 

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I had a snapper until recently. They are very easy to work on. Removing that engine is no big deal.

The hole under the engine is big enough to remove it with the drive disc attached to the hub.

Remove the throttle cable, disconnect the fuel line, disconnect the grounding wire from the governor, disconnect charging wire and starter (sounds like your already is). Remove the 4 bolts that hold the engine to the frame, use a socket with an extension from underneath. Lift the engine out.

The pulley and drive disc come off the hub. The hub is held to the crank shaft with 2 set screws, remove them and the hub "should" just slide off. I had trouble getting the hub off my engine because one of the set screws had stripped out.

If you can take pictures of things before you take them apart it helps when putting it back together. The absolute best thing about a snapper RER is that they are very friendly to work on, and very simple to maintain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That would save a lot of headache if it's just a matter of disconnecting lines and unbolting the mount bolts. Do you need help with taking the engine out or is it light enough to pick up? Also my engine code is 02 08 01. I was looking at what the code meant. It says on the Briggs site that it tells you the engine mechanicals, governor type, paint color, and decals that the engine had. So how do you find out what the engine paint color is? It appears some of the parts look white but have been sprayed over with black. What are the proper decals to add? If I take out the engine later and check and reseal it, I may as well redo it all right just like I did the engine in my old Dodge.
 

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If you can lift a jumbo bag of dog food into a shopping cart you can lift that engine off the mower and put it on a bench. I don't know what they weigh but it can be much more than 50 lbs or so.

I have no clue how the Type Code works for Briggs engines. For Snapper of that age the engine should be white. No clue about decals, there are some on E-bay but they are not for the I/C type that snapper used. I have never seen the decal on my 11hp on anything else, I think it was unique to Snapper. I taped over it when I painted my motor rather than scrape it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What is the most difficult part of redoing a Briggs engine like this 11hp? Is it the governor setup? I was reading about it in the manual and it has a lot of springs and levers that look confusing to get back perfectly. Mine is probably only going to get a carb rebuild and a gasket rebuild. It doesn't smoke at all or knock, just some of the gaskets seeping. Are all the specialized tools in the Briggs service manual necessary? Whats the most important tool if I was planning this kind of redo, just a carb rebuild, and all the gaskets and seals on the engine?
 

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The beauty of this engine is that is is very simple. The govenor isn't that complicated and is actualy really easy to adjust. Look up "Static governor adjustment"

As far as tools, no you you don't need all those fancy factory tools. It depends an how far you want to break the engine down. To replace your crank seals you will have to pull the whole thing down. IF you just replace the base gasket you don't have to touch any of the internals.

You will absolutly need a good torque wrench, and one in the propper range for that engine. Other than that you may need a valve lapping tool. You can use a snap ring pliers to remove piston rings, and hoseclamps to compress rings to install the piston. I used valve spring compressor but you can get by without one. Might want to see if you can rent one from an auto parts store.(Sometimes they do it for free) A good scraper to clean the gasket surfaces is a must as well. I made a flywheel puller, or you can use a generic puller. Use a socket instead of the special tool to install the new crank seals.
 

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Here is another thread Disassembling a 12.5 Briggs IC - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information that has some pictures and advise. All I have done to mine in the last week is check the gap in the new rings (.016), lightly lap the valves and make a few passes with a hone to deglaze the cylinder.
In NDwrenche's post #19 and my post #1 you can see what the engine looks like with just the sump removed. Both threads have pictures of the crank/balancer assembly. I don't see any reason to disassemble every piece of the engine, The picture of the balancer is as far as I will take it down, same with the governor, stator, and throttle/choke control on the side of the engine.
As stated, taking the engine off a Snapper is only a matter of disconnecting everything on top, removing the bolts, slide the engine forward a little and remove the belt from the drive pulley and lift the engine out. Take a lot of pictures, use baggies for parts and label them with a sharpie. If you run into a problem the people here will help.
Cannon
 
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