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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well everyone, picked up the 14SE I won at auction today. What a mess! Actually it will be worth it once I restore it. $73.00 for the entire machine. Not sure yet what repairs are going to run. I have not started it yet, but it does have oil in it which is a good sign and it is not leaking. No cracks in engine or mower deck, transmission is free both rear wheels turn and make the clicking sound of the gears moving freely in neutral. Here is a run down of the parts, work I'm going to need to do.

2 New Rear Wheels, both are shot, the left one is cracked and torn.
New Blade, the BBC does move I was able to turn it, but it might need to be replaced.
New BBC Cable, Throttle Cable, and Transmission Cable
New Starter rope or entirely new recoil
New plastic chute that attaches to deck to send grass into bag or side discharge, this was missing entirely and that made me mad because the entire transmission was covered in crap, but it appears to work
New oil filter and oil change
Grease rear wheels
Considering taking the battery and electric start off and turning it into a 14SB.
Speaking of 14SB: my 14SB is back together and ready to go but it needed a new recoil starter tooth, so they ordered one and will install it before it comes back. Either I will pick it up tomorrow or Monday.

Here are some pictures of the 14SE:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the comments so far. Going to start working on it next week. Believe it or not I picked this up from the city auction. The worker at the DPW that helped me get it said he has been there for 14 years and had no idea where this came from because he has never seen one come through for service. He believed that it came from the fire department because it was in decent shape. The mowing maintenance crews beat the living crap out of equipment when they use it, so that's why he speculated it came from the fd. My guess is the city has another one still in use because this one was pictured with the starter rope and fuel cap on the online auction page, but when I went to pick it up they were missing with a rag covering the fuel tank, so they probably took the parts. Anyways will keep you updated.
 

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Now is that a true John Deere or a rebadge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now is that a true John Deere or a rebadge?
My friend this is a tride and true John Deere 14SE, from 1993 or 1994.

The "Silver Decks" 14SB, 14SE, 14SC, 14SX, etc. and their younger "Green Deck" siblings, JX75, JE75, JX85, etc. are in my opinion the best walk-behind mower John Deere ever engineered. Ahead of their time! Originally, the 12 (2 cycle) and 14 (4 cycle) were made with the older style walk behind mower deck from John Deere. I want to say 1988 is when they introduced the Silver Decks because growing up, my dad had a 1989 John Deere 14SB 4.5 hp model with the silver deck. Serial number was GX14SBX053421, would have been cooler if it had ended in 054321. It quit in 2000, though all it needed was a carb cleaning, new gas line now that I look back on it and we got a JS63C (2000-2008) did not like that and though I was 8 at the time already knew the good John Deere's from the bad and tirelessly tried to get them to buy a JX75.

My grandfather has a 1991 or 1992 14SB with a 5.0 hp engine that just had the sump base replaced because it cracked when changing the oil (see the thread John Deere 14SB Problem Free No More). Yet it lives to mow another day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well, ebay is about to become my friend again! Or I order a new deck from John Deere directly. The 14SE needs a new mower deck. There is a cracked away part right in front of the transmission that is missing. Take a closer look at the last picture posted earlier in this thread of the underside of the deck to see for yourself. And also this one I took topside looking down at the transmission. It shows the jagged edge right in front of the transmission in the deck. Might just keep for parts for the 14SB unless I can find a compatible deck, just a little disappointed. At least I have a good transmission, engine, upper half Warner BBC, cables, handle bars excluding the BBC cable. Looking at the John Deere Parts Catalog, it appears as if the decks are still available. Am I right on this? Of course it probably costs $1000!
 

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Cool project! I think it's great how you're passionate about these particular mowers and have family history with them too. :2th:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks Austen. Yeah I really like them and though I like my Honda HRX217HYA I use commercially, I have wanted to get a second 14SB or 14SE running since my dad's/my (14SB) quit 15 years ago. Though I am beginning to think I am a little bit crazy!:bump:
However, I wonder if my 1st 14SB is still out there. I will post the serial number here, still have the pink slip:
GX14SBX053421
First Purchased on: 8/26/1989
Cost: $525.00 plus $36.75 tax for a total of $561.75.

EVEN THEN THEY WERE EXPENSIVE!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I had a little time this morning and started to look over the 14SE a little bit more.

The good news: IT STARTS AND RUNS!!!
The bad news: The carburetor is going to need cleaning, but I expected this. It is surging in full throttle and when you move it to low throttle, it completely shuts off. This was the same problem with my dad's 14SB if I remember correctly from 15 years ago.

The other good news is the transmission works in all 5 gears, the BBC moves freely and engages, even though it looks rustier than heck and the BBC cable and control will need to be replaced because they are cracked.

It will also need an oil change and oil filter because the oil is darker than the night sky.

First priority is going to be getting a new or used deck because it is missing the part that cracked off at some point in front of the transmission. I can only guess how that happened because there is also a chip in the front of the deck and I think the two areas of damage are related. So that's where I'm currently at, going to get a deck for it in October. Another update will come soon, stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Keep posting to my own forum, but could it be the ignition coil and ignitor that causes similar symptoms as a carburetor misbehaving, such as the surging and the engine shutting off? The 23-24 yr old 14SB I just got repaired has never had its carb or ignition coil replaced, but it definitely needs a new BBC. (Just watch it will need them now after hearing me talk about it. Those machines have brains and ears don't get me wrong!)
This 21-22 year old 14SE might need the coil or ignition module. Granted I contributed the numerous pulling of the recoil rope to the machine sitting for awhile as the reason it would not start. Any, ideas, start with carb the ignition module because that is usually the main culprit? Any suggestions?
 

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I think I'd make a list of that are definitely things needed, and things you want to do, and prioritize them. Then separate them from easiest to hardest, and go from there.

Carb cleaning is something I tackle first, and is pretty simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think I'd make a list of that are definitely things needed, and things you want to do, and prioritize them. Then separate them from easiest to hardest, and go from there.

Carb cleaning is something I tackle first, and is pretty simple.
Carb is definitely a priority. Need to find a deck to transfer everything to because with the chunk from in front of the transmission missing, it won't mow correctly. The chunk of the deck probably hit a large rock or piece of concrete and got stuck. Then while trying to free it, whoever hit it broke that part off, taking the plastic chute that directs grass into the bag because the engine works with no issues and blade engages.

Additionally, there is corrosion damage from using the mower like that for awhile. Going to convert it to a 14SB too because the electric start wiring had a grazed/ scrapped away part from it after getting worn at by the transmission drive pulley. A lot of work ahead, but should not be to bad. Are the Oregon brand replacement wheels practically identical to the JD OEM ones? They are cheaper and appear to be just as strong.
 

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Are the Oregon brand replacement wheels practically identical to the JD OEM ones? They are cheaper and appear to be just as strong.
I've put new setsof Oregon wheels on a 14SBand two 14PZs and all have worked really well. The oldest set has been on for about three seasons now. Don't know how they will wear in the long run, but I'm pleased with them for the price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I've put new setsof Oregon wheels on a 14SBand two 14PZs and all have worked really well. The oldest set has been on for about three seasons now. Don't know how they will wear in the long run, but I'm pleased with them for the price.
I am going to go with the Oregon's. $12.95 in savings vs the OEM ones is a plus. They Oregon brand are identical anyways.
 

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I will definitely take a look. THANKS!!!:ThumbUp:
Another little useful tip: I'm noticed that the John Deere OEM hub covers (those rectangular yellow plastic caps with the Deere logo on them) fit more loosely on the Oregon wheels than they do on the Deere OEM wheels. It seems that the holes in the wheels that the hub cover prongs go into are just a little bigger on the Oregon's; not a huge difference, but enough to be annoying. I solved this by wrapping both prongs on each of the hub covers a few times around with Teflon tape (the kind used to seal threads on plumbing connections). This makes the prongs a little thicker and eliminates the looseness in the hub covers on the new wheels. I'm sure there are other fixes for this, but this one worked for me.
 

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Another little useful tip: I'm noticed that the John Deere OEM hub covers (those rectangular yellow plastic caps with the Deere logo on them) fit more loosely on the Oregon wheels than they do on the Deere OEM wheels. It seems that the holes in the wheels that the hub cover prongs go into are just a little bigger on the Oregon's; not a huge difference, but enough to be annoying. I solved this by wrapping both prongs on each of the hub covers a few times around with Teflon tape (the kind used to seal threads on plumbing connections). This makes the prongs a little thicker and eliminates the looseness in the hub covers on the new wheels. I'm sure there are other fixes for this, but this one worked for me.
Thanks - another quick fix for this is to use a little bit of regular-grade (not the high-adhesive type) silicone RTV you have on hand - just enough to secure it in place, and not so much that you can't pry it off later with a small screwdriver.
 
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