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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If there is anyone that can help. I have serviced my John Deere 14SB numerous times throughout the past. It is pushing 23-24 years old next year and it has never had a problem until today. I used it to do the trimming for the lawn, it sat for awhile cooled down, then it was cold, so I wanted to change the oil because it has been awhile. Fired it up to warm the oil so it would drain easier. Drained it out, tightened the drain back up, went to fill it with oil. So far no problems. As soon as I am ready to start it, I look down and there is oil gushing out of the bottom. I did not start it after realizing this. I cleaned debris away (oil and dirt gunk) and I found a crack in the base, right behind the drain area that I believe runs a little down under the base, and up the side.

I felt and feel awful right now. I have been frantically searching this afternoon and evening for parts. Luckily, if there is any good news, its only the base that is cracked. All parts inside should be fine.

Though it might be tricky, can the base be replaced with a new/ used one and re-attached to the crankcase, upper part of the engine? This mower means a lot to me as it is my grandfathers. Where do I even start with this repair?

I figure it was only a matter of time before it had a major problem such as this, the older it gets the more fragile it becomes. Just very upset about this and want to do everything to fix it, if possible. I should have left it alone, ugh!
 

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Welcome to the forum! :welcome:

I know that feeling well from when I cracked the base mounting tab and the oil started to run out the bottom of my grandfathers 1950's David Bradly tiller about 30 years ago. It's still setting in the shed waiting for me to track down a replacement base for it. I've been running another engine that is even a little older on it since that time. Should be a fairly straight forward repair of pulling the engine off the mower and bolting on a new base and gasket. :2th:
 

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I moved this on over into the John Deere forum. If you can give us some numbers off the engine we can help you look up parts diagrams for it. Is it a Briggs engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I moved this on over into the John Deere forum. If you can give us some numbers off the engine we can help you look up parts diagrams for it. Is it a Briggs engine?
I will get the numbers in the morning and post them, then hopefully we can talk specifics. I really appreciate the help! This mower is not going down without a fight, if I can help it!
 

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how bad is the crack? if its not to bad i would just slather the drain plug and cracked area in jb weld and drain from the dipstick for now. best thing about this is you can use it like that for a while until you run across a doner engine with a new sump with no damage to the main block from jb weld
 

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Welcome to MLF. Glad to have you join us, and believe me, we feel your pain. Not much worse than the sinking feeling you get when something like that happens, but, like Mark said, should be easy to fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok everyone. Here is what I have as it appears on the machine:

Serial Number: GX14SBC190834
14SB
JD201

Engine Model: FC150V-CS00
Engine Serial Number: FC150V216456

The Crack is about 1.25 to I would say 2 inches maximum and runs from behind the oil drain to just out of sight under the oil sump.

Can the bottom just come off if I put the recoil starter assembly, flywheel, and crank case upside down or are there parts inside attached to the bottom? I think a new sump might be in order here?

This is my first time posting photos, so hopefully they are ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you for the input. I thought a new sump, plus new seal between the two parts is all it will need. It is still a very strong engine, no longer have to choke it to start it either! There are some good looking engines on eBay, that all I would need is the sump from. Don't know if their any good only looking at pictures. What do the sumps run new? I know this particular engine is no longer made. Does anyone know even though there were slight differences over time, are the sumps still the same on each even if it is say from an FC150V-FS00 versus a FC150V-CS00 like the one I have.

Additionally what would be the proper way of removing it, put top of engine crankcase down then take broken sump off? Trying to figure what part numbers too! This particular Deere is an interesting one because it is a 5 H.P. with a Ogura Clutch and I know not long after this machine was made they switched to the Warner's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I found a JX75 Motor on eBay off a 1998 model right now for $50.00. I wonder if it might be worth it? Seller is 100% The decks were all the same, no carb or pull cord, but I could take those off the Current Engine and remount the new engine. Linkages for carb and everything else is there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Anyone know specifically what part numbers? See earlier post in thread for specifics of this machine Since there were so many slightly different versions of the engine I do not know which to go with. Mine has a FC150V-CS00. I see one on eBay off of a JX75 that is an FC150V-HS00 and I've also seen an FC150V-FS00. Would any of these work on the 14SB deck? Mounts were all the same correct beginning with the first silver decks up through the end of the use of the FC150V's on JX75's?
 

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I would not be as worried about the deck mounting as a change in the mating surface curvature or bracing where it mounts to the engine block. You can look up the John Deere part numbers using the mower model number here:

John Deere - Parts Catalog

Look in Sectional index / KAWASAKI 4-CYCLE ENGINE (MOWER MODELS 14PB, 14SB, 14SE, 14SC, 14SX) / Engine base, camshaft and oil pump

Looking at both those listings they show some difference in the covers and mention needing to change a camshaft gear as well to match the cover substitution on older models. But looks like by serial number yours is new enough that may not be the case. Here are the numbers I came up with but double check me on it. These are prices from my local dealer so your actual cost might vary some. (Click images for larger size view.)

14sbbase_gasketimg.jpg

14sbbase_gasket.jpg

Something else you could try is running those Kawasaki engine numbers through an engine parts website and see if it calls for the same part numbers for the bottom cover and gasket for both engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I would not be as worried about the deck mounting as a change in the mating surface curvature or bracing where it mounts to the engine block. You can look up the John Deere part numbers using the mower model number here:

John Deere - Parts Catalog

Look in Sectional index / KAWASAKI 4-CYCLE ENGINE (MOWER MODELS 14PB, 14SB, 14SE, 14SC, 14SX) / Engine base, camshaft and oil pump

Looking at both those listings they show some difference in the covers and mention needing to change a camshaft gear as well to match the cover substitution on older models. But looks like by serial number yours is new enough that may not be the case. Here are the numbers I came up with but double check me on it. These are prices from my local dealer so your actual cost might vary some. (Click images for larger size view.)

View attachment 30233

View attachment 30241

Something else you could try is running those Kawasaki engine numbers through an engine parts website and see if it calls for the same part numbers for the bottom cover and gasket for both engines.
Mark/Ohio,

Those were the parts I was coming up with too. With so many similarities in parts I was not sure. Better to get parts and fix my engine because I know it's reliable vs buying one that came on a later model that might not even fit. Thank you so much for your help. Will see if they are available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I keep posting to my own thread, but I have an update. Went to my local Deere dealer earlier today to pick up some other parts, told them what happened to the 14SB. Spent 15 minutes or so looking through the databases for parts. They said the machine serial number and the serial number's on the engine were coming up blank, could not connect the two. This left me disheartened. I wonder if this is why, take a look at the pictures:

The engine on my 14SB was made in Japan, not the USA. I don't think this makes any difference, but does it? Maybe that is why they could not find specific part in the Deere database. Any ideas?:help:

In other news, I found a complete engine off of a 2000 JX85, haven't purchased it yet. However, I am considering it, but what I am not sure of is the hook under the deck where the spring for the BBC attaches. This one has the Warner, the mine has the Ogura. On the 14SB there is a hook welded to a small hole hooked to the deck vs the JX75 and JX85 where there is a part screwed on under the deck. Not sure if the location is the same or different.

I'm still going to continue my own research though! NOT GIVING UP, I like this mower to much!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Thank you for the help, I greatly appreciate it as well as everyone else. Yes I believe because the FC150V-CS00 motor was made in Japan and once Deere switched to the FC150V-FS00, those were made here in the United States. The FC150V-CS00 must have been on the early 5.0 hp ones that ran the Ogura Clutch (like my grandfathers the one im trying to fix). This MIGHT BE SOME GOOD NEWS, according to the John Deere Parts Website parts are still available for the FC150V-CS00 including the sump cover that I need. Hopefully either I or my dealer can order it.

The parts I will probably need for the FC150V-CS00 are:
M113542 Gasket
M95687 Cover (Sump)
PT10384 O-Ring (for plug)
M92523 Plug No longer available, but can be taken off the current cover
9M7863 Screw - 6 of them just in case any others break
There are others I believe I will need to but will investigate later. Rebuild this machine throughout the fall
 

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Thank you for the input. I thought a new sump, plus new seal between the two parts is all it will need. It is still a very strong engine, no longer have to choke it to start it either! There are some good looking engines on eBay, that all I would need is the sump from. Don't know if their any good only looking at pictures. What do the sumps run new? I know this particular engine is no longer made. Does anyone know even though there were slight differences over time, are the sumps still the same on each even if it is say from an FC150V-FS00 versus a FC150V-CS00 like the one I have.

Additionally what would be the proper way of removing it, put top of engine crankcase down then take broken sump off? Trying to figure what part numbers too! This particular Deere is an interesting one because it is a 5 H.P. with a Ogura Clutch and I know not long after this machine was made they switched to the Warner's.
I'll let others chime in on how to take it all apart (and there are plenty of other threads out there on that topic as well), but I'll throw this backyard-mechanic fix at you first:

Drain oil.

Position the mower such that any residual oil inside the mower runs away from the cracked area.

Use emery paper and roughen the surface of the metal around the crack.

Spray crack with brake cleaner and then dry off (use oil-free compressed air if you have it).

Apply JB Weld to the crack, using a flat screwdriver or putty knife to force it into the crack. On the surface, apply a thin layer over the surface that bridges the entire cracked area and extends beyond the crack at least 1/4".

Let JB Weld dry for 24 hours (I recommend using the standard slower-drying JB, as the JB-Kwik can start getting hard before you even apply it).

Refill engine with oil and see what happens.

The above procedure should take you less than an hour, and if it works, will save you many more hours of work. I have fixed several engine crankcases this way (yes, even on cars) and it has worked for me thus far. The key is getting the base surfaces perfectly clean and oil-free before applying the epoxy.

For that matter, you can even do the same procedure above using a high-performance RTV such as Permatex Ultra Gray instead of the epoxy.

Good luck, whatever you decide to do! I have several of that model of mower myself and it is one of my all-time favorites (there are very few mowers that leave as nice of a cut).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'll let others chime in on how to take it all apart (and there are plenty of other threads out there on that topic as well), but I'll throw this backyard-mechanic fix at you first:

Drain oil.

Position the mower such that any residual oil inside the mower runs away from the cracked area.

Use emery paper and roughen the surface of the metal around the crack.

Spray crack with brake cleaner and then dry off (use oil-free compressed air if you have it).

Apply JB Weld to the crack, using a flat screwdriver or putty knife to force it into the crack. On the surface, apply a thin layer over the surface that bridges the entire cracked area and extends beyond the crack at least 1/4".

Let JB Weld dry for 24 hours (I recommend using the standard slower-drying JB, as the JB-Kwik can start getting hard before you even apply it).

Refill engine with oil and see what happens.

The above procedure should take you less than an hour, and if it works, will save you many more hours of work. I have fixed several engine crankcases this way (yes, even on cars) and it has worked for me thus far. The key is getting the base surfaces perfectly clean and oil-free before applying the epoxy.

For that matter, you can even do the same procedure above using a high-performance RTV such as Permatex Ultra Gray instead of the epoxy.

Good luck, whatever you decide to do! I have several of that model of mower myself and it is one of my all-time favorites (there are very few mowers that leave as nice of a cut).
Thank you for your post, it has been very helpful. The crack is in the base cover where all the oil sits, luckily not in the crankcase. I think I will seriously consider the JB Weld. Which type of JB Weld should I use? Will the JB Weld be able to hold up to the vibrations from the engine though they are not severe? What about engines radiated heat? That could cause the crack to expand, unless enough JB weld has been applied around that area? Here are the steps I believe I will have to take:

1: Dismount Engine from mower (The crack runs a little ways from behind the drain plug down under the base, but not to far.

2: Each of the steps you included.

3: Possibly seal the oil drain plug if it leaks.

4: Remount Engine.

5: Fire it back up and hope she will run and work again.

If this all fails, new sump cover and if that's not available, get a replacement engine that is not in to bad shape.
 
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