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Tired of screwing with my LB DuraFarce, so it was time to go 4 cycle. Found it at a yard sale in non running condition. Figured it was worth the $15 for scrap weighing in at 100#. Researched the mower on line after buying it and found the problems seem to be transmission and ignition ignitor, so I went to the local dealer and he had 5 or 6 of them in his bone yard. Got a bagger, used coil and ignitor, and a new air filter for $45. Motor had spark, but having a spare ignition parts will come in handy someday. No Stabil in an empty gas tank over the winter was the likely of the starting issues, cuz when I cleaned the air correction jet and flushed the tank, it ran. I'm sure there are adjustments to make, but I downloaded the Kawasaki engine manual and that should take me through most of it.

INFO: Model/serial# GX14SBF417496 JD9503 2.6KW 3000MIN 45KG and the engine is a Kawasaki FC 150V

Questions
1. Are there symptoms or signs that the transmission is getting ready to crap out? Since I've never used one of these mowers, I don't have a feel for such things.
2. While trying to grease the rear drive areas with the grease gun, grease flowed nicely through the inside of the right side housing, but there was much resistance to getting grease in the left side. Is that normal and what can I do to make sure it's been greased right. The left side oozed out the external part of the housing and none came out of the inside part.
3. Grass seems to want to stick to the inside of the housing and I was wondering what kind of non ferrous metal the housing was made of and whether after properly preparing the surface, if that graphite based paint (like they use in grain storage bins) might keep the grass from sticking as much?
4. How much slack should be in the cable that actuates the drivetrain? There was a lot when I bought it and I've taken about half of it out just in case having no slack is a bad idea.
4. Any tips on getting some sort of lubrication down the cable sleeves?
5. Is the transmission really a 5 speed transmission, or are the numbers just speed guidelines?
6. There is a bit of play in the blade brake clutch unit between the tangs that stick out of the housing and the housing itself. It's maybe a 1/16". Is that acceptable? The blade is tight and doesn't vibrate.
7.Although the oil looks fairly clean, I'll change it after I use it the next time and I'll put one of those fuel filters in the line. Is there anything else I should do to make the thing last forever?? The PO said she had it serviced at the local dealer within the last year and the oil isn't dirty.

As you can tell from some of these questions, I don't have either the service manual or the owner's manual, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Max
 

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One of the most common general recommendations these days is the addition of a manual fuel shut off, primarily due to the upswing in needle & seat issues with the ethanol 'enhanced' fuel. Crankcases flooded with gas & then mowers being operated by individuals who don't check oil EVERY time have caused some expen$ive outcomes. Sounds like you made out like a bandit on your purchase. People who can't, or won't do their own work often tire of the hassle & expense of finding a reputable shop & treat lawn equipment as another 'disposable' item. Good on ya for saving another one!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The 14SB has a shutoff valve from the factory right on top and a fine screen on the outlet to the fuel line. I was just going to put an in line filter in the long hose for back up. The local dealer warned about using ethanol as here in Iowa, there's plenty of it. The 87 octane real gas is all I will burn in either mower from now on.

I have a motto that goes something like....you either have the money to pay someone else to do something or you have the time to do it yourself. I would fall into the latter category. If that Silver deck originally sold for $800, then I will continue to seek them out for parts and tinkering. Earlier that day I found this one, I arrived at a Presbyterian church yard sale and someone was carrying TWO of them out to his pickup truck!!! Didn't ask the price, but then I didn't know what I know now.....

DM
 

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Questions
1. Are there symptoms or signs that the transmission is getting ready to crap out? Since I've never used one of these mowers, I don't have a feel for such things.
2. While trying to grease the rear drive areas with the grease gun, grease flowed nicely through the inside of the right side housing, but there was much resistance to getting grease in the left side. Is that normal and what can I do to make sure it's been greased right. The left side oozed out the external part of the housing and none came out of the inside part.
3. Grass seems to want to stick to the inside of the housing and I was wondering what kind of non ferrous metal the housing was made of and whether after properly preparing the surface, if that graphite based paint (like they use in grain storage bins) might keep the grass from sticking as much?
4. How much slack should be in the cable that actuates the drivetrain? There was a lot when I bought it and I've taken about half of it out just in case having no slack is a bad idea.
4. Any tips on getting some sort of lubrication down the cable sleeves?
5. Is the transmission really a 5 speed transmission, or are the numbers just speed guidelines?
6. There is a bit of play in the blade brake clutch unit between the tangs that stick out of the housing and the housing itself. It's maybe a 1/16". Is that acceptable? The blade is tight and doesn't vibrate.
7.Although the oil looks fairly clean, I'll change it after I use it the next time and I'll put one of those fuel filters in the line. Is there anything else I should do to make the thing last forever?? The PO said she had it serviced at the local dealer within the last year and the oil isn't dirty.

Max
1. There is nothing much to go out in the trans, when it starts hanging in gear it may need to be opened up and cleaned real good and re-lubed, the problem seems to be more with adjusting the linkage.
2. You could have a bad/frozen zerk fitting, replace them.
3. Mine is a 14SM so I don't have that problem, spray it with silicone spray or the wife's Pam.
4. As long as it's working, don't fix it, drive adjustment, very touchy.
4. I use spray lube with the straw and an air compressor with the nozzle.
5. The transmission is 5 speed, you will see if you open it up, pretty simple assembly, just don't drop it.
6. Leave it alone.
** It is highly recommended to use a resistor type spark plug, something about the static of a regular plug affecting the igniter.
*** If you need to replace the igniter replace it with the Rotary product which is $12-$15 whereas the Kawasaki product is about $65.
****
Manuals:
Go to www.deere.com, select Residential tab, select Service/Support tab, select View Operator/Parts Manual, select either Search for Operator Manual or Search for Parts Catalog, enter Model Number.

This should take care of you for now. Have a good one. Geo
 
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