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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
last year with the help of a friend i put an external alternator ( a poorboy kit ) on my 1200 Goldwing. after about a month of riding the belt started slipping so the alternator wasn't charging. after talking with poorboy himself i figured the belt simply doesn't have enough tension on it and the way the kit is made there is no adjustment to be made. i'll have to do some disassembly to get at the alternator and the brackets and have a friend fab up a bracket that can be adjusted. i am not looking forward to the disassembly
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was out today with the 1200 wing and there is some adjustment you can make so I did but the meter is showing that its charging if the rpm's are under 1500 above 1500 and it doesn't seem to be charging. if I have time tomorrow I'm going to have the alternator tested and try a new belt and get some pic's for ya
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
got it charging today, found the wire that excites the alternator loose and got it fitting a lot better. I rode down the block so my friend could test it, he has a fancy alternator / battery tester and it show's that at 1100rpm it starts charging
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
exactly like that! the stator on four cylinder goldwings is on the back side of the motor so the motor has to be removed to change it, cost $1000 - $1300 to have it done. I have about $500 in the alternator kit and about 15hrs of labor. I've got more power for electronics with the alternator also and I can get the alternator at any auto parts store. I'm going to add some driving lights and some marker lights to my 1200 wing
 

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In 2000 I got my first Goldwing. It was a 79 1000. Along about that time my brother told me the alternator in his 84 1200 had failed completely. I replaced his for him. Took me two days. Then I found mine to be bad as well. Replaced it too. On both bikes I found that the root failure was the Molex connector on the alternator output. The three yellow wires connecting the alternator to the regulator. I cut the Molex connector out and soldered the wires. On mine, the problem had been made much worse by the previous owner who had installed lots of driving and marker lights, all connected with Scotchlock connectors. Those things are nothing but trouble. I rode that 1000 all over the western half of the country for five years and my brother gave he his 1200, so I gave the 1000 to my best friend. Here's a surprise, I bought a 2001 VTX 1800 last year. Honda used the same Molex connector that had failed on earlier bikes. No lesson learned and nothing to correct the problem. Both Wings are still going strong.
 

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It would be ugly if I found someone using them on my bike !!
I just can't say enough bad things about twist wire connectors (Scotchlok) when someone uses them outside a home or business. They are great for connecting household wiring but have no place on cars, trailers, lawn equip or anything that's exposed to moisture. Second worst would be the wire tap style. Only slightly more weather resistant. They work great in dry areas.

Solder and shrink wrap are the best followed by butt connectors and shrink wrap and when you're talking about your vehicle it's well worth the time, money and trouble to do it right so you're not out someplace far from home with a dead battery, no lights or that "somethings burning" smell. It's just a time bomb waiting to go off. I've worked on so many cars with butchered rear wiring harnesses from some clown cutting and splicing in a trailer wiring hitch that I've lost count.
Or the guy who uses them to install his high watt headlight or fog lights.
Sorry, it's just a sore spot for me :soap:


 
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