[Beavers]

l have no Blade rotation or Drive motion on this mower. The motor starts and runs good. l just picked this mower up , it was given to me and l changed the oil and now l do not know what causes this sympton . What should l be looking for?


Thanks
Brian

 

[bwdbrn1]

Hi Beavers. I'm going to be you are activating the levers for the Roto Stop and the transmission as you should, so it could be that the Roto Stop (Blade Brake) and transmission cables need to be adjusted. It's possible too that there is an issue with the drive belt to the transmission.

Which version of the HRB215 do you have? Gear Drive or Hydrostatic transmission

 

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l have no Blade rotation or Drive motion on this mower. The motor starts and runs good.

Brian, on the back top edge of the mower deck there should be a serial number plate, and the serial number should be in the form of "MXXX-1234567"

Share that number with me, and I'll look up service details on this mower for you.

Does it self-propel okay?
Does the throttle lever work okay?

The HRB mowers have a 2-step blade clutch. The blade control lever on the handlebar must be activated in the right order:
(1) Release all the levers (hands off)
(2) Press down and hold the yellow button on the blade control lever.
(3) Keep the yellow button pressed, and pull the blade lever toward the handlebar.

Hope this helps a bit...

 

[Beavers]

Hrb215

l found the number , here it is #MZBA-6311530.
do not know if it is gear or Hydro, but control lever has 1-2 speeds showing.
The throttle cable to engine speed works good and other blade control cable and speed control cable are connected and appear to be working but l do not understand how to adjust or how adjustment works.
l have been pushing down the yellow button first , then moving forward the blade control lever forward but the blade does not engage, at the sametime l lift up motion drive control lever but the wheels do not turn.

Do not know enough about the mechanical design to understand what source drives the blade.

ls their a switch some were not working maybe?

Thanks
Brian

 

[bwdbrn1]

Going by the serial number you gave, and your description of how the controls move, I believe this is the owner's manual to your mower.

http://powerequipment.honda.com/pdf/manuals/31VE2630.pdf

Take a look at it and see if the controls look like the ones shown in the manual. If you have the numbers 1 and 2 on the control panel next to the orange lever, then you have a gear driven mower.

There are no switches, such as electrical switches, involved in either the blades or the transmission. Just a cable that is attached to the levers at the handle bar end, and a pivoting arm at the other.

After you have pushed down on that yellow button, and move the lever it is on forward toward the handle bar, you should feel tension, or resistance in that lever. You should feel that tension begin after you have moved the lever forward about a half an inch, or so. You would definitely hear the blades begin to spin, and see air blowing from under the deck if they are being activated. When you let go of the lever, it should spring back to the off position on it's own.

Here is a test that I always do on mowers like yours when I come across them to quickly see if the transmission and it's belt are likely O.K.

With the engine off, push the mower forward. You should hear a clicking sound coming from the back wheels. Then, again, with the engine off, push the drive lever forward, and try to pull the mower backwards. The back wheels should lock and drag on the ground and not roll.

Take a look at the owner's manual. It contains most of the information you'll need for that mower, and try those tests I mentioned and see what results you get.

 

[[email protected]]

l found the number , here it is #MZBA-6311530.

Do not know enough about the mechanical design to understand what source drives the blade.

Brian, you have an HRB215SXA, and it's a K3 model.

There is a cable that runs from the blade lever (the one with the yellow button) down through the deck and connects to the blade clutch (called a Roto-Stop) When you start the engine, the blade stays parked. When you engage the blade control lever, it pulls the cable and connects the blade to the spinning engine, and the blade starts turning.

It may be the cable is way out of adjustment, not connected, or some other problem in the blade clutch. A full inspection of the cable (both ends) is first. Make sure it is connected.

Turn the fuel valve to OFF, disconnect the spark plug, then tip the mower over on the right side [down] and left side UP to look under the deck and locate the cable where it connects to the clutch.

If you feel comfortable doing some repairs, I'll post a few pages from the shop manual with more details. If not, here's a link to find a Honda dealer in your area who can help:

Honda Dealer Locator

 

[Beavers]

Hrb215

l did check the rear drive wheels the way you suggested and found that when l pull backwards the wheels lockup and forward with the lever engaged l can hear a clicking sound at the wheel. Based on this l assume this is correct and drive belt not broken.
l tried adjusting the blade control cable again and noticed when their was about 1" of freeplay before the bail lever had cable tension the engine would stall out but if l increase the freeplay to 2" the engine would continue to run.
What ever is causing this to happen is effecting both Blade speed and Wheel motion speed.

Hope this helps you help me.

Thanks
Brian

 

[Beavers]

Yes any pics would be gratefully appreciated regarding this issue.

Thankyou

 

[bwdbrn1]

If the diagrams in the owner's manual look like your mower, then I think the directions for adjusting the cables are on page 56, or so. Those would be better than any pictures I could send you. There shouldn't be that much play in the blade engagement lever. It should be something less than 9/16" before you really feel the resistance. With the engine running at full, you should be able to engage the blades. You will notice the engine speed slow a bit as you engage them, but if the engine stalls, maybe you're going at it a bit too fast. Try engaging them a bit more slowly.

So far as the transmission, if it did those things, then it has passed what I use as my initial test. Obviously the next test would be to start the engine and see if it pulls itself forward when you activate the drive lever.

The cables to the blades and those that go to the transmission go separate ways, and aren't in anyway inner connected.

Here's the owner's manual again. I believe I gave you a link to the wrong one yesterday. Sorry.

http://powerequipment.honda.com/pdf/manuals/31VE2630.pdf

 

[Beavers]

lt appears the Drive Belt is really loose and pulley is wobbling side to side , l can feel it from underneath. l am having a hard time removing the 12mm cover bolts on shield to get a closer look but their really tight, l am afraid of breaking them, any tips on getting them off.
The Blade control cable is attached to Roto- Stop clutch assy and moving freely.
The engine is still stalling when blade is engaged though.
Even though the engine starts easily, is it possible the compression is Low and not enough power to turn blades and motor dies out?

 

[[email protected]]

The engine is still stalling when blade is engaged though.

That sounds like there may be an issue with the Roto-Stop (blade clutch mechanism). If it has any drag or other problems, it could be putting too much load on the engine (when you try and engage the blade) causing it to stall.

Just a thought; you'd need to inspect the Roto-Stop completely and confirm it is working okay...again, if you feel comfortable doing that, I'll post the needed pages from the shop manual.

 

[Beavers]

l got everything working today after installing the Drive belt.
Question: Why does the throttle control lever have to be in full choke position when engaging blade control in order to work?
lf l move the throttle control lever to fast or slow and engage the blade control lever the engine stalls .
Owners manual page 32 seems to indicate a different starting procedure, at least that is how l understand it to be.
l still do not understand what is grounding out the engine if no electrical switches, etc.

Their is some progress and that is good and appreciate all your support.

Thanks