[L&G_repair]

Hi.
Sorry for a long "first post". I'm hoping someone can help.
I bought a JD G110 with no engine (and no engine wiring harness). The original engine was a 25 hp kohler. I have a Kawasaki FH 680V (23 hp) engine i'm putting in it. I need help figuring out how the engine gets hooked up. There are differences in the two engines and i don't want to fry the kawasaki when i hit the key.

I ask my local JD dealer for help but got nothing. An online search yielded the same results.

The tractor chassis has several wires with no home. I think i figured all of them out, except one. (correct me if i'm wrong)
(4-wire plug) RED, WHITE, YELLOW, YELLOW/white stripe.
RED - "Hot" all the time. (connects to voltage regulator?) Do i need a diode on this line, or is there one built in to the Kawasaki?
White - "Grounded" with key "off" position. (connects to coil "kill" wire?)
Yellow - "Hot" with key "lights,run,start" position. (connects to carb?)
Yellow/white stripe - Not sure? This wire can be traced back to the "L" terminal of the ignition switch. I thought it might be for the lights, but they have their own separate plug.

There are other single wires too:
Purple - hot with key "start" position. (connects to starter solenoid?)
Black - this is just an engine/chassis ground.

...and theirs the plug for the pto.

If i could only figure out that yellow/white wire.
Any sugestions?

 

[xcopterdoc]

The Yell/wht wire marries up with the red wire to the voltage regulator. The rest of your connections are correct. Single black wire with female spade connector would go to the starter solenoid as does the purple wire. You should have a 4 pole solenoid. The "L" on the ign switch stands for "LOAD". Dont ask me why! Good luck and good hunting!

 

[L&G_repair]

Ok. Thanks. Just so i'm clear on this...the single black wire is actually 2 black wires that end at a single female spade connecter. This wire checks out to ground. So this would be the solenoids ground? Purple would be the hot wire to the solenoid.
And the yellow/white that marries the red at the voltage regulator...do any, or both of these wires need to have a diode installed. Or does the Kawasaki have a diode built in?

 

[xcopterdoc]

Thats correct... black to solenoid ground and purple to the other spade on the solenoid. Makes no difference which goes where. Now as for the diodes, I cant really answer that. I know there are diodes in line with the coil kill wires. Those are the only ones that I know that maybe on the engine harness itself. In the chassis harness there may be one in the pto circuit and the start circuit. If they are there, they will be large red diodes that plug into a harness with a male and female bullet connectors.
What machine did the Kaw come off of?

 

[L&G_repair]

xcopterdoc, i don't know what the kawasaki is out of. I picked it up from a local shop for 100 bucks (needed a connecting rod).
I thought a diode only goes in the stator wire (charging circuit) so that the stator doesn't fry. (a diode is a one-way electrical valve) Current flows away from the stator to charge the battery, but current can't flow back towards it from the battery. The kill wire just grounds-out the coil(s) so the engine stops. I didn't think the kill wire had diodes in it? But i could be wrong on that.
Anyway, i'm getting there.
I'm gonna cross my fingers when i hit the key.
Thanks for all your help. Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

 

[xcopterdoc]

On some engines with a lower amp charging system a diode is used to convert the AC voltage of the stator to DC. If you have a voltage regulator, the voltage is being rectified there from AC to DC. So no diode is needed inline from the stator. You should be fine. The diodes in the kill wires for the coils are there to prevent back feeding from one coil to the other, so when you switch the ign sw to off.. it kills both coils.
You can run a stator with no diode installed or voltage regulator installed and it will not "fry". It just wont make any DC voltage to charge the battery. A stator is mearly a winding of wire and then a magnet passes around it, thus creating AC voltage. Which is unregulated. The faster the engine spins, the more AC voltage is produces. Most systems without a regulator are in the area of 3 to 5 amps. Ones with a regulator are up to 15 to 20 amps. I dont thinks you'll burn anything up when you hit the key. Either it will work or not. Double check all yur hots and grounds. Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on it. The G100 wasnt a bad machine.
Happy hunting and a very Merry Christmas!