[MowerPower]

After a long dry summer, I went out to start my riding mower for one last mow of the summer. It would not start. Put brand new battery and spark plug on. It does NOTHING! Won't crank, won't churn...nothing. Using a screwdriver I was able to short out the "starter relay" (the positive battery cable leads to this switch, under the seat, and a second red cable runs to the starter), and start the engine. As soon as I let off the clutch the engine died. Now, it won't even do that again. Do not have a clue as to what is wrong with the thing. Before I take it to a shop, and pay through the nose, I wonder if there is something I am missing. The last time I used it, I had no troubles with it what so ever. Hope someone out there can help me.

 

[wh55]

almost the same thing happened to my 23 year old wheel horse except it would start but when i engaged the deck it would die....after checking every switch it ended up being the ignition switch itself...

 

[Mark / Ohio]

almost the same thing happened to my 23 year old wheel horse except it would start but when i engaged the deck it would die....after checking every switch it ended up being the ignition switch itself...

As the saying goes it's always the last thing you check that fixes them.

My guess would also be the ignition switch or one of the safety switches. From there it is then tracing wiring for breaks or shorts.

 

[MowerPower]

I have checked all wires and cleaned everything that looks like it needs cleaning. Replaced the starter Solenoid. It started fine once, and won't start again. How many safety switches are there? It continues cutting in forward and reverse. There is the shut off when not sitting on the seat. Don't know where else to look. I appreciate any help on this.

 

[Mark / Ohio]

... Replaced the starter Solenoid. It started fine once, and won't start again. How many safety switches are there? It continues cutting in forward and reverse. There is the shut off when not sitting on the seat. Don't know where else to look. I appreciate any help on this.

Likely one switch on the brake/clutch pedal, one switch on the linkage to engage the PTO if it is a manual PTO and not electric clutch on the blades.

Since it cuts both in forward or reverse there probably is not a switch on the gear shift. Models with the reverse cutout would have a safety on the gear shift or reverse pedal if a hydro transmission. Also the switches might tie into a relay somewhere that is causing the problem.

 

[sround369]

I have a Scott 17.542 that will not start. Battery is new with good voltage, fuse is good also. Turn the key and get a clicking noise oit of the starter. It started 20 minutes earlier without any problems. Any thoughts or Ideas. Blowing it up has crossed my mind. JK.

 

[Mark / Ohio]

Welcome to the forum sround369!

... Battery is new with good voltage, fuse is good also. Turn the key and get a clicking noise oit of the starter. It started 20 minutes earlier without any problems. Any thoughts or Ideas. Blowing it up has crossed my mind. JK.

What does your voltage read right down where the heavy wire connects to the starter when trying to crank it? (Also try it both using the negative battery post and the metal frame for a ground. That will tell you if you have a bad ground if the voltage reads less when the negative lead is connected to the frame.) If the voltage on the starter connector bolt while cranking is less then what you see when directly on the positive post of the battery then you have possibly a bad solenoid or bad connection someplace between the battery, solenoid, starter, and last but not least the ground wire to the frame.