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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 20 HP Kohler Courage broke down a few weeks ago. The bottom counterbalance tried to weld itself the the crankshaft. Kohler doesn't sell the individual parts just the whole lower unit. (Might as well buy a new motor) Anyway I found a crankshaft/counterbalance on EBay and installed them.

Now I'm pretty sure I did everything correctly. I know the timing is correct.



I tested the compression and it was 100 PSI which from what I read online is perfect for this engine. It also held 100 PSI for 30 mins.

I have spark. (changed the plug anyway)

I'm pretty sure it's getting gas. I've even shot starter fluid into the carb.
I'm at a loss. HELP ME PLEASE!

Maybe this video of the engine will help...
 

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How is the key on the flywheel? Is it partially sheered? The audio on the video sounds like a metallic clunking or knocking. Is the different crank a different stroke, shorter or longer or the c-balance is a different weight for a different driveshaft? Is everything matched and compatible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I installed a new key. The spark is hitting right before TDC which should be right. The shaft and counterbalance is a different revision than my original but is made for my engine. The service manual shows both styles. Stroke is 3.38 in. It doesn't show a difference for revision.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are the 2 styles. My old one was a P and the new one is a O. I used the arm from my old counterbalance because it was a better design. There where no clearance issues.

 

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I can hear a clunking too. I can't think of anything other than the different style balancer that would cause that. Maybe there's a difference that the manual doesn't show. Or maybe the dogbone rod (that's the arm) has to be matched to the same style balancer. If it's not correctly balanced, that could cause a clunking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I went back out and there is a small knock. It doesn't happen until it spins fast enough. I don't know what it could be. There's not much to that arm and even if it was the arm hitting something, it doesn't explain why it won't start.
 

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It may be just me, but I looked at the vid and it looks like the coil pack is WAY far away from the flywheel. Is it just me, or is it not set correctly?

From where I am setting, it looks to be at least 1/8th of an inch away from the flywheel. :dunno:I know you said you have spark, but is it a nice big white spark? Just asking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, I pulled the flywheel and the key had sheared. The whole thing was 180 off. I'll pick up another key tomorrow and try again.
It's my fault for not locking down the flywheel before trying to start it. The bolt on the new shaft was different and I had to get a new one.
Do you think the knock might disappear when I get the flywheel in the correct position?

(in case you can't tell, I'm a total amateur at this...)
 

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Thanks for that update, It's possible it will go away but no guarantees yet. See what you have once you replace the key.
I also see what PR is referring to as far as the gap on the coil. Should be the width (gap) of a business card.
 

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My mistake. I didn't realize the flywheel had the protruding type of magnet/trigger on the side of the flywheel. Im so used to the standard ones with the magnets built in, instead of built on. :bag:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
UPDATE: I put a new key in and it started right up. Sounds good. I even did a little mowing last night.

Thanks!
 

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Awesome Ken!!! Good luck!!
 
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