DIY Paint & Body Work Part l

Another view from a different angle:
And one more:

Part l Basic Metal Work:

I'm hoping to show, through a series of pictures, the process of exposing a damaged area and using abrasive paper, materials, sanding and guide-coating. One of the hardest things to learn is how to feel the panel once it's straight. This is one of the very few lessons that can't be taught as the individual has to learn the difference of dissimilar base metals (and filler) through his hands, as your eyes a little help. It helps greatly to purchase inexpensive cotton gloves as it isolates your hands from the service being repaired.

1- Materials:

These materials include a long board hand sander (commonly referred to as an idiot stick ), a shorter version of the long board sander, 40 grit and 80 grit 'strap' sand paper, a roll of 80 grit and 180 grit DA paper and various hard and soft rubber hand blocks. I use the more expensive PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive-backed) abrasive papers as they don't slip on the block or board and last much longer then inexpensive sand papers. There is also a Popper, which is nothing more than a piece of 'looped' welding rod. This helps remove the buildup of filler by 'slapping' the popper and knocking off the majority of the sticky stuff and extending the life of the strap:

2- This picture shows a half round filler file, the filler, spreaders and the mixing pallet. I'm using the term filler because the chemical properties are so far advanced from a decade ago and the common reference used to be "Bondo". I use this brand, Evercoat and although it's slightly more expensive, it is ultra light, flexible and much less sticky from the resins found in other brands.



3- A few pictures of the primer I used. These are non-catalyzed (no hardener) gallon containers on the left is the Reducer. Reducer IS the manufacturers term for thinner. And on the right is the primer. The last picture shows the mixing ratios (and I apologize as it's a bit fuzzy). I found these materials very inexpensive (compared to DuPont or PPG), and available from a local NAPA auto parts store.





4- The Kubota Hood

In hindsight I wished I'd have taken a picture of the original damage...but I forgot. Typically, just about any metal can be worked using a hammer from one side and a dolly (or any handy 'chunk' of flat metal) on the other. The damage here was minimal and it was smack dab, right up against a very tough (and unforgiving) pinch weld. The depth of the damage was approximately 1/8" and required very little filler. I used masking tape (blue) to keep the filler from flowing into the pinch weld crease. As the filler begins to harden you should remove the tape (before it completely solidifies). The last picture shows a full, wet coat of filler and although it looks like way too much, about 90% will end up on your floor once you begin sanding the material with the 40 grit strap:

tackit said:

Mark, rather spending money on moisture removal system so I can spray paint I was thinking about buying a Fuji HVLP setup with their gravity gun. Is that a bad idea? I'm lost when it comes to choosing the right spray equipment.

Presently I have a NAPA jar type moisture remover and filter on the compressor and I use screw on filters I bought from HTP on my Plasma outfit. The system works good for my airtools and plasma but for spray painting I don't know.

Click to expand...

Tackit, There just isn't a short answer. So, here's the long version and I hope you can make sense of it!

There is a problem with the self contained HVLP guns power source, and that's the air delivery system heats the air and heats the paint as it's delivered through the paint gun cap.

Once you become familiar with paint and reducers you'll find that manufacturers offer three types of Reducer (thinner) that are specific to the ambient air temperature. Slow, medium and hot reducers provide the painter with a choice at the time of his/her painting session. If you're painting between 55°-65° you would use the hot reducer which accelerates the flash times (drying between coats) and allows the paint to flow out. This prevents runs and sags and forces the solvents to evaporate quicker. Same thing, different temperature; If you're painting between 65°-78° you would use the medium reducer which dries slower but still allows the solvent to evaporate and allow the flash times and color coat to flow out. 78°-85+° would require the slowest available reducer to combat the shop temperatures, keep the chemicals from drying too fast and provide the best results for your paint work.

The short version to your question is no because the temperature generated from your cyclonic air supply system negates all the control (of the reducers) due to the heat it generates at the gun. The system is excellent for furniture and cabinet making when using stains, oil base paint, laytex and clear lacquers and varnishes....but it's not ideal for applying automotive finishes.

The paint industry, although heavily regulated, put the decision making process in the hands of the painter. They don't make it easy with all their techno-babble but in this instance, it's good to know that you decide the appropriate reducers and how you want to apply them to your project.

The standard, 100 year old design of the motor to pump to tank compressor is by far (and still) the best for auto-body and paint repair and refinishing. The water trap at your compressor sounds adequate but I use these to insure NO aerosol oils contaminate my gun and it's contents. There is nothing worse for a painter to discover fisheyes due to contaminates getting in to the spray gun. It can ruin several hundred dollars of paint (not to mention all the labor).

These work wonders:

(2 DISPOSABLE AIR FILTER-Water Trap HVLP Paint Spray Gun: eBay Motors (item 390239781350 end time Oct-14-10 19:23:06 PDT)