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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2010 Cub cadet 1040 won't start. Bought new. Pulled ignition switch and checked per web instructions appears ok. New battery. When I hook up battery I get a minor spark. When I check the ground on battery to ground on engine it gives me 12 volts. I have no idea why that would happen. Researching for 2 days without anyone having something similar. Wife wants me to just buy a new mower but now it is making me nuts that I can't figure it out. I've always been a back yard mechanic. Should I pull off the regulator? I see how to test it running but not off the mower. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Big T
 

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I would begin by checking the solenoid. Their a common failure on older machines and a good place to test and see if the problem is in the switch or safeties. This video shows how to test it. I prefer a test light instead of a meter but either will work. Test and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response. I have the solenoid off the mower and it seems to check out fine. I did notice that two wires were not connected, the ones with the spade clips. I'll put back the solenoid this morning and attach the spade type wires. Terry
 

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Put solenoid back on with wires connected as shown on internet. Turn key to start and solenoid rattles like no tomorrow. Tested battery while doing this and the battery drops to 7 to 8 volts. Wife wasn't happy about holding tester on battery while I cranked engine. Ran ground wire from good engine ground to battery negative, Engine cranked over without key on. Engine started but it shut down as soon as I removed the heavy duty ground wire. Figured I would burn something up by leaving it connected. Driving me nuts. I went over all the wiring to see if I have an exposed wire. Any Ideas? Thanks Terry
 

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Hey Bigt - welcome to the site.
Let's see if we can narrow down what's wrong with your mower ( and help future readers)
I take from your post that your mowers engine will not turn over when you turn the key.
Our basic questions:
what is the full model number of your machine (to find correct wiring diagram)
did this just happen or have you had intermittent no starts?
Have you performed any repairs on it recently?
Has the battery been losing its charge while sitting?
some of the clues you have given need to be explored a little. First, understand that the solenoid only provides power to the starter while the key is in the start position. Once the key is in the run position, 12v goes through the key switch ti all the other functions of the mower. So basically, we have two circuits.
With the key off, and the negative cable hooked to the battery, you should not get a spark when you go to connect the positive cable. That could mean that the positive side is making connection through the key switch some how. You can confirm this by unhooking the cable on the solenoid that goes to the starter and check for a spark when you hook up the positive cable on the battery. If there is a spark, then there is a problem on the key switch circuit. If the spark goes away, the problem may be on the starter side, including the solenoid.
There should also be a smaller wire on the battery side of the solenoid the powers the key switch related functions.
When chasing down an electrical problem, the "divide and conquer" method helps by isolating circuits to eliminate circuits that are not the problem.
PS I found a service manual for a 2009 and it refers to electrical systems that are "pre-RMC) or "RMC systems). Meaning that there may be a electronic control module to contend with.
Cub Cadet 2009 manual
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great write up. I'll attempt what you suggest on your post and get back to you. If there is a way to bypass everything so I can at least mow what would that be? Thanks T
 

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One big problem I have seen that may explain the 12v on the engine block would be loose engine mounting bolts. Now the engine would have a floating ground. 4 bolts from underneath should be very tight but you can strip or break them. Some mfg's will ground the battery to the engine thus really relying on the mounting bolts to transfer it to the reset of the machine. Not good at all. Adding a ground strap from the engine to the chassis would be a good idea.
 
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