Hmm, just looked at Sears parts and that switch and the ammeter are the only two of the electrical parts showing a current back order. Always makes one wonder if they are having a problem with them when you see that.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...P0405132/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=9172736401
Do you have an owners manual for it? If not you can download a .pdf file of it here:
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0406036.pdf
Page 33 has the wiring diagram and shows in detail the ignition switch and also a table of the different switch positions and whether they should read with an ohm meter open or closed.
Your going to need a volt-ohm meter though to test it. The terminal M (one of the two black wires on the switch) should never have 12 volts on it. It will read an open connection to chassis ground
unless one of the safety switches are activated or the switch is on the "off" position.
In the "off" position or if a safety is activated when in the "on" position terminal M will read a short to ground killing spark. Make mental note of the bold & italics above as that will tell you if one of the safeties is shorted when the ignition switch is in any other position besides "off".
Puzzling thing is if the ignition switch is even momentarily shorting 12 volts into the coil kill terminal one would think it would blow the fuse. Or if it does not blow the fuse at that time, any one of the safety switches when activated would blow the fuse.
But with a new plug there really is nothing else there that could damage the coil that I can see. Strange problem.
