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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

new to the form. I live in Southern NJ and looking for some help with a Jacobsen Commerical 20 push mower.

I mower was a hand-me down to my grandfather that ended up at our house and it dawned on me. It's been around longer then me I think (i'm 46) and the only mower my parents have own. In the last 10 years it's seem little or no use till I pulled it out of the shed last weekend. It's got some old fuel in it and also a newish spark plug. The issue seems to be spark. I tried checking it with a simple test light, but when I pull I don't see any flicker of light.

My next thought was to try and get at the sator. I pulled off the cover and the bolt for the flywheel but stopped there. I'm guessing some type of fly wheel puller is needed? There isn't much space to get puller arms under it.

I also did some searching The model is 32033 22320 and I think this is a 321 2ngine?

Any help with the repair ideas or information (on line manual?) would be awesome. I've got experience with motorcycle repair and a good set of tools.

Thanks in advance.
 

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That looks to be in great shape! We have a few Jake gurus here who will chime in here shortly with some help.
Be sure to hang onto that one. :2th:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks you. to be honest when I pulled it out, It was just to take a few pics to sell it but I'm a sucker for tinkering so hopefully someone can get me pointed in the right direction and she'll run once again.

Joe
 

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Here's a Jacobsen service manual from 1966. See if there's anything in there that's helpful.

View attachment Jacobsen 1966 Manual Part 1.pdf

View attachment Jacobsen 1966 Manual Part 2.pdf

View attachment Jacobsen 1966 Manual Part 3.pdf

Page 16 shows how to remove the flywheel. You don't want to use a puller on them, as I recall. Not having one of their "special" flywheel removal nut, I used a coupling nut on my Jake.

Nova II electronic ignitions work very well on those old Jake engine. Austen put one on his Lawn Queen, and after reading of his success, I've put them on two different Jakes.

http://www.mfgsupply.com/31-8786.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks so much for the info I got flywheel off, looked things over and took a few pics I've got be honest. I don't really know how to test the points I just figured I'd find a broken wire.

I cleaned up what I could and put it back together, cleaned the carburetor bowl figuring there might be some old gas and put it back together.

Still no spark.. That I can detect..

I read over the PDF tomorrow as well as look into the electronic Ignition. one other question. Any chance I can find a rebuild kit or seals for the carb.

Thanks in advance

Joe
 

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Nice mower and great work on getting it to this point in terms of bringing new life back into her! That's pretty neat if it's been in your family since new.

If you don't already know the year of your mower, it can be dated using this website based off the serial number, although the site appears to be down at the moment. Check back. http://hmfind.com/JAC/JacobsenSerialNumberFinder.aspx

The original ignition components in vintage Jakes are their weak point. As Bruce mentioned, an electronic conversion is the way to go. I run the Nova II kit in all my Jake engines. It provides a nice hot spark, is reliable and is an easy conversion.

I created this write up on how to do the conversion several years ago. The kit will work with your stock coil assuming it's still good. Otherwise you'll need to get a new coil that's compatible with the kit as explained. How to convert a points and condenser system to electronic ignition on a small engine.

Once in a while carb kits do pop up on Ebay- all they really are is just a few gaskets. Typically I've always made my own gaskets using the originals as templates when it comes to vintage Jacobsens. FYI though, if you do find one, the gasket material will be quite old because parts have been obsolete for decades for these engines. Sometimes it's better to use new material and go through the trouble creating your own for that reason alone.


 

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That's a super clean looking commercial you have there. I bet you have it purring like a kitten before long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Austen and others thanks so much. for all the info. I did quickly search on searchtempest last week before finding this site to see if I could find any in the area and did see a few for sale but nothing with in 100 miles.

Making the gasket where the carb bolts up to the engine I shouldn't be a problem. How about the rubber gasket for around the bowl. I'm not sure if it's leaking there or the threaded star wheel/needle under the it. I wasn't really sure what it did.

I've got a few mower repair shops in the area so maybe I can pick up a Nova II locally otherwise I'll order.

Thanks again everyone for all the help. Also the plug is Champion CJ-14? Does that sounds right? I did some reading online and it sounds like the 321 engine uses a UJ-12.

Joe
 

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Those plugs will work. I have a couple of different ones in both of my 321's: a Champion J19LM and a Denso W14LM-U in another.

If the carb bowl gasket is the o-ring type, it should be a fairly standard size that you can find at a lawnmower or auto parts shop. If it's made out of gasket paper, then one will have to be made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
testing the coil?

Its just a rubber o-ring type so I'll look around. I did find you're thread on the install and link to garden tractor pulling tips. Brian sells about everything under the sun for small engines.

What's the best way to check the coil or should I just bite the bullet and buy a new one. I had emailed Brian and he sells a replacement that will work.

cheers

Joe
 

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I'm not too familiar with testing procedures but it's up to you if you want to get the kit first, connect it up to your stock coil and see if it works and go from there.

It may just be my luck, but I've had to replace the original coils on every one of my Jacobsens. I've connected up the kit to a stock coil before only to have it fail shortly thereafter and then had to take it apart again to replace it with a new coil.
 

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That is one nice hand me down. All I ever end up with is screwed up junk. :banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, well I got everything apart and I ordered a nova II, new coil, and rebuild kit for the Carb from Brian @ A-1 Miller's Performance

The parts should be here in a week or so and I'll post up some pics when I get into it. Austen or other who have used the Nova. To shut the engine off. Currently I just ground the plug. Should I add in a switch?

Joe
http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1miller.htm
 

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OK, well I got everything apart and I ordered a nova II, new coil, and rebuild kit for the Carb from Brian @ A-1 Miller's Performance

The parts should be here in a week or so and I'll post up some pics when I get into it. Austen or other who have used the Nova. To shut the engine off. Currently I just ground the plug. Should I add in a switch?

Joe
Good deal! :ThumbUp:
Regarding shut off, is there not a switch or metal tab to ground the plug to kill the motor?

If there's a switch, you can wire the kit into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
As I remember it, when we first got the mower to shut it off you turned the Choke/throttle knob then at some point when it was serviced a metal grounding tab was added and they cut the spark plug boot so it would ground out. I was looking to the 1966 manual PDF but couldn't find any pictures.

I'd rather not but the spark plug boot again so I was thinking I should add a switch or try and figure out how throttle adjustment was used to shut the mower off.

Joe
 

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From the sounds of it, the choke knob should be part of the kill switch then. To kill the motor, the switch will probably be slid/turned to the very opposite side of the choke position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
agreed but without seeing it wired up. I do understand how that would work. I did see a black wire that was taped off when the points were changed last. I'm guessing that wire woulds run to the throttle/choke or switch. The bakewell knob is just attached to a rod that adjusted the carb. I'll have to take a closer look but it doesn't look like it had any missing connections.

Joe
 
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