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I am old school and I remember the 60s, 70s Auto paint jobs stood up well to a good old waxing! If needed you could use a good rubbing compounding before the rubbing wax on the old paint jobs, they stood up well to it. I have this sap material that just doesn't seem to go away with various fluids. I am concerned about damaging the clear coat. I have some older wax that may be 15,20 years old#
I know I should most likely buy some more recent LIQUID (vs paste) products which I also have.
any experience with that would be appreciated
vehicles are 2004 2006 and 2010
 

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Use the slightest type of compound and go stronger as you try them if needed. We have used Meguirs products with great results. I learned that using strongest stuff first is no no. Best to try cleaner wax first, then polishing compound so on. Rotary buffer with foam pad is what I use. Go to Autogeek.com to learn more!
 
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this:
Meguiar's Cleaner/Wax, Liquid, 16oz. - A1216

or maybe this:
Blue Magic 12A - TR-3 Resin Glaze Cleaner & Polish | O'Reilly Auto Parts

(as a former Meguiar's sales rep I guess I'm more partial to the former, but the TR3 took all the road tar off the rocker panels on my '68 Pontiac a few years ago.) ;)

* oh yeah: and whatever you do, do NOT get bug repellent on your car. apparently DEET eats the clear-coat off automotive paint finishes. who knew?

(* and no, I certainly would not use rubbing compound on a vehicle with clear coat - it's pretty aggressive stuff - it'll take the paint right off if you lean into it enough. not sure I'd even venture there with polishing compound, although I do use it to clean really oxidized lawnmower decks on occasion.)
 
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