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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I'm new to the site and limited on knowledge about small engines ( always bought new and took to the shop if they tore up) but here's my problem: I have a "Monkey Wards" rider model: TMO-30000A with a 18 hp briggs and stratton twin (L-shape), I replaced the throttle control and cable on it over the weekend but now I can't get it to fire ?, even trying to use starter fluid ?. I have had it now, going on the second summer, and it has always started up without a problem, but now it turns over not trying to fire ?. Being new to small engines and not having much knowledge ..... I don't have a clue what happened to cause it to not go ahead and start ? .... help please my grass is turning to seed already !!!!!! Carl
 

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Is it adjusted correctly? Do you have it where the choke is closed when in the choke position and with the throttle in the wide open position is the butterfly wide open? One other thing to check is to make sure you put the new cable in the correct hole on the the throttle lever.

If it ran fine before, I would double check everything I did first before messing around with anything else. Also make sure you didn't unplug the solenoid on the bottom of your carb by accident if so equipped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. Ok, with the choke lever pulled all the way out, the "flap" is closed ... as for the throttle, I will have to take the air filter cover completely off to see if what the butterfly is doing ? ..... it looks like there is some kind of movement but I can't get a good look until I get the cover plum off and see for sure ?. Give me a few minutes (I don't have a shop or garage to work in) so, I'm out here in the yard. And, I don't think it has anything to unplug, as far as a solenoid, but I'll check that to, when I can get a better look at things ?.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
FYI: also, I think this thing has a "governor" on it because, before it would idle in a "cycle" (I call it) ... maybe I screwed something up with that ?, trying to get the end of the cable in ?, which by the way, I put back in the same hole I unhooked it out of ?.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, I was able to get a good look at the carb and all of the linkages and springs and things ?. 1. When the choke is pulled out, the "big flap" is closed 2. With the throttle position all the way forward (or wide open) the smaller "butterfly" is also wide open and closes when I pull the throttle control back toward me or when it's on slow idle.
 

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Hello string, please also check that your linkages are all on and in the proper hole where they were. Fivepoint is correct, check all his tips first! Hope you took pictures of before you removed items. If not, look for shiny area where they were before. I wonder if the magneto just happened to fail on you at same time. Common issue with old Opposed twins. We have had a few failures. Check the spark with a tester,or if you don't have one, insulated pliers holding plug wire a little ways away from plug. Sounds like you have no spark if it would not fire on starting fluid. Please be careful NOT to use starting fluid much, will damage your engine!! I found this out from a reliable source. Washes the oil off your cylinders and lets them run dry!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the good ideas guys but sadly I think it might me something that will require a trip to the shop (if I can find somebody to haul it for me) ?. I can confirm that I am indeed getting spark on both cylinders and I can further report that the motor will start and run as long as you are squirting the either ?.

The only thing that I can think of is, maybe there is some kind of problem with the governor-part of the linkage ? .... because the only thing I unhooked was the cable itself and it is right back where it came from (same hole) .... but, this mower has always ran and idled strange (to me anyway) ... maybe it had to do with the fact that this was a "racing" mower before I got it ?.

But I appreciate the help and was hoping it was something that I could have fixed fairly quick and done myself ....... but !!!!!!! "no such luck" !.
Hey ... does anybody want a old ..."Monkey Wards Signature Elite" or trade for one that will actually ............ MOW !? lol thanks again guys Carl
 

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You have a unrelated fuel issue nothing you did I bet! The carb is dirty and you aren't getting fuel. The fuel line may be bad internally , most likely it is a dirty carb. I would not give up so easy, if you aren't comfortable working on it, have the shop fix it. You could also buy a used carb and just switch it out. When you say it will run with the ether, that showed you have spark and no fuel delivery.
 

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:ditto:
You have a unrelated fuel issue nothing you did I bet! The carb is dirty and you aren't getting fuel. The fuel line may be bad internally , most likely it is a dirty carb. I would not give up so easy, if you aren't comfortable working on it, have the shop fix it. You could also buy a used carb and just switch it out. When you say it will run with the ether, that showed you have spark and no fuel delivery.
 

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I bet you knock the ground wire off while you replaced the throttle cable.

Check there as there should be a plastic piece that both the coil wire and ing. switch go too.
 

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I forgot that one! Good idea Art!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well guys, nothing new to report for today because I haven't even took the cover off !, to cool here ... but, it is ironic that you mentioned that it's not getting fuel, as my brother-in-law rode his new John Deere down here (just to rub it in) and he also said he believes it ain't getting fuel somehow ?. I can say that when it was running (before the throttle cable change) that I would have to run with the choke half-way pulled out ?, so this may be something that has been progressing for a while and just went hay-wire when I replaced the throttle control and cable ?.

I'm trying to find somebody with a pickup or a trailer so I can haul it to the shop .... that is, if the shop isn't backed up to far ?. It's been a good mower and I have spent to much money on it for me to give up .... but, I'll keep updating as I find something out. Carl
 

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You can test the theory of bad tank / fuel lines etc by running a rubber tube into a gas container and connecting it directly to the fuel pump - which might be a square block mounted somewhere on the engine cowling. If the motor starts and runs, the problem is between the fuel pump and the gas tank filler - probably gunk in the tank or a blockage in the line. If it doesn't, then the issue is located either with the pump itself (unlikely) or in the fuel path between the pump and the intake. You can remove and clean the tank, and replacing the fuel line with a fresh one can't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
How about the problem being "bad gas" ?. My brother-in-law pulled up and informed us that both his new John Deere rider and his Kawasaki mule stopped running at the same time ?, so,he drained the gas out of both and replaced with fresh gas from a different station and they both started right up and ran like normal again ?, so could that be something that would cause my problem ?. I have a call in, to a well recommended, small engine mechanic but he wasn't open today, so I should hear from him tomorrow, but I thought I would relay this on and see if any of you guys think that could be my problem ?
 

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thanks for the good ideas guys but sadly I think it might me something that will require a trip to the shop (if I can find somebody to haul it for me) ?. I can confirm that I am indeed getting spark on both cylinders and I can further report that the motor will start and run as long as you are squirting the either ?.

The only thing that I can think of is, maybe there is some kind of problem with the governor-part of the linkage ? .... because the only thing I unhooked was the cable itself and it is right back where it came from (same hole) .... but, this mower has always ran and idled strange (to me anyway) ... maybe it had to do with the fact that this was a "racing" mower before I got it ?.

But I appreciate the help and was hoping it was something that I could have fixed fairly quick and done myself ....... but !!!!!!! "no such luck" !.
Hey ... does anybody want a old ..."Monkey Wards Signature Elite" or trade for one that will actually ............ MOW !? lol thanks again guys Carl
Well I guess I should have read all the post but had no time when I posted....but its not the ground wire since you have spark......lol

Usually they take the sump off and remove the governor gear so the high engine speeds do not make the governor gear explode and take the whole engine out.
If this is the case someone may not have put it back in and just jury rigged it so it would run.
Jury rigged means using springs to get it to run without a governor gear or fine adjustments on the governor gear shaft just to get it to run half way decent to unload it.
As far as the carb goes who knows what they did there.
Do you have a full pump on this engine?....If you do unhook it from the carb and crank the engine over and see if it pumps gas out....leave the hose high enough....higher than the top of the carb or better yet the top of the engine so you do not get gravity flow...if it works it should shoot out gas as you crank the engine over....make sure all vacuum lines are connected to the fuel pump as this what makes it work. You may have to add a longer hose to the pump or make it longer or add to the original hose to make it longer.
To adj. the governor you put throttle at full speed...without engine running....loosen the nut on the governor arm and turn governor shaft clockwise till it stops then tighten nut and start engine.....if at idles it runs fast you need to turn governor shaft counterclockwise....I forget which way because some engines are different. I always started the engine and had control of the governor arm so the engine would not rev to high if it was the wrong way.
I had one of those L headed engine....18hp for 20 years without any problems and no oil filter back in those days.
Change the oil you do not need a oil filter.....is why they use them today for people who do not change there oil to get the 2 or 3 year engine warranty now days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, I took some pics of the front of this motor ...(it looks like I will probably have to try and fix this myself) ..... now bare in mind that, I don't have a clue what I'm doing (not being mechanically inclined) so, I will most likely have to be led by the hand, step by step, so please be patient with me !.

If you need some better close-up pics then I will try to take them .... whatever is needed. The mower itself is a Montgomery Wards Signature Elite 18/42 ... I don't guess it makes much difference what chassis the motor is on ?. The Model number is: TM0-30000A/ C081H3
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well guy's, I have an update on my problem .... it seems that I might have it solved ?. The man at the small engine shop called and suggested that I drain the float bowl and run a bread tie in and see if there might be some gunk or something clogging things up and ..... sure enough, I took the drain bolt out and ran a tie in there .... and as soon as I turned it over "bingo" it fired right off and ran just like it did before !. He also suggested that I get some "QM1" and pour it in with the gas I use, to help get the water out of this crazy gas that is offered to us nowadays ?.

So, bottom line ..... I am back running again (and glad of it) and can chalk it up to "junk-gunk" in the carb ... it probably wouldn't hurt to have it took apart and cleaned real good ? and for sure run something in with the gas I buy ... no matter where I buy it from !.
 

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Haven't used QM1 but I know Seafoam works great doing the same thing. Dump some in your gas tank and run it for a good mowing or two and it will clean things up. It is possible for more junk to loosen up and find its way back into the jets. I would keep the idea of a rebuild on the table when you get the opportunity.
 

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:ditto: Sometimes it's worth the effort of the rebuild to make sure that the problem's gone for good.:2cents: Then, once you have a clean, rebuilt carburetor, you can keep it working good by periodically running Seafoam through there. Also, I think it's a good practice to always use an anti-ethanol fuel conditioner, like Sta-bil marine formula, to prevent ethanol gum from forming. That will keep your carb in top condition.
 
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