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Watching your video leads me to think that the engine is turning way too hard. You should be able to put both hands on the flywheel screen and rotate the engine at least to the compression stroke. Until that can happen, I wouldn't think the starter would turn it. If you remove the two bolts and drop the starter down, it should spin easily and run with a jump from the battery. The starter bearing could be tight. Spark won't happen until you get the engine to spin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
can you red neck it & use a jumper cable straight to the starter or relay to see if you get it to turn over?
Replied earlier but didn’t read close enough and thought you were just suggesting jumpers to the battery.., my bad.

I am very interested in trying the red neck jumper cable to the starter or relay if helpful;

Q1 Where specifically would I attach the jumper cables to the starter? Also I am not clear on what is reliably grounded on the lawn tractor but assume all of the metal frame should be electrical continuous with ground?

Q2 I don’t get the impression (but definitely no expert) that the starter is “kicking in” with any less power than before. I can feel the gears hitting the “unresponsive” fly wheel through the frame up to the seat and ignition switch. Would that play into the trouble shooting proecess?

I never had a reason to try to turn the fly wheel by hand before so I can’t really assess if it takes much more effort than normal or not. I’m assuming knowing that would help determine if it more likely that the internal parts need adjustment. (Completely blanking out on the correct part name 🙄)
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Watching your video leads me to think that the engine is turning way too hard. You should be able to put both hands on the flywheel screen and rotate the engine at least to the compression stroke. Until that can happen, I wouldn't think the starter would turn it. If you remove the two bolts and drop the starter down, it should spin easily and run with a jump from the battery. The starter bearing could be tight. Spark won't happen until you get the engine to spin.
The starter gear does drop out of the way either when I take the key out or when I stand up and step off the lawn tractor. It may be getting temporarily held in place by friction after the starter gear engages the fly wheel that does not move with it. If you notice on the video of trying to start the engine the starter gear begins down below the fly wheel until I put the key in and turn it to the first position before engaging the starter.

That fly wheel will definitely NOT rotate a mm by hand turning it so I think you are correct about there being too much resistance to turning it. Does that pretty much rule in the internal engine components previously mentioned need adjustment?

I was hoping for a less invasive fix but ready to dig into that if someone can point me to a good tutorial or YouTube video.
 

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I was hoping for a less invasive fix but ready to dig into that if someone can point me to a good tutorial or YouTube video.
I would definitely try what I suggested back in Post #19 before diving inside...
 

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Replied earlier but didn’t read close enough and thought you were just suggesting jumpers to the battery.., my bad.

I am very interested in trying the red neck jumper cable to the starter or relay if helpful;

Q1 Where specifically would I attach the jumper cables to the starter? Also I am not clear on what is reliably grounded on the lawn tractor but assume all of the metal frame should be electrical continuous with ground?

Q2 I don’t get the impression (but definitely no expert) that the starter is “kicking in” with any less power than before. I can feel the gears hitting the “unresponsive” fly wheel through the frame up to the seat and ignition switch. Would that play into the trouble shooting proecess?

I never had a reason to try to turn the fly wheel by hand before so I can’t really assess if it takes much more effort than normal or not. I’m assuming knowing that would help determine if it more likely that the internal parts need adjustment. (Completely blanking out on the correct part name 🙄)
Take a set of jumper cables & put positive red to Positive battery
Take the black cable & put it to the negative battery post. Then put the other black negative to the frame.
Then put the remaining Red wire & touch it to the main Power cable going to the starter.

Try to hold it on their long enough to see if it will turn over any different.
 

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Try this without the plug in. The engine should spin very free and fast. If with the plug in stops the engine turning then you may have a valve issue. Removing the valve cover and the plug again, rotate the engine. You should see one valve rock, then the other. They should rock the same distance. The valve gap, or lash, should be checked and verified.
 

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Try this without the plug in. The engine should spin very free and fast. If with the plug in stops the engine turning then you may have a valve issue. Removing the valve cover and the plug again, rotate the engine. You should see one valve rock, then the other. They should rock the same distance. The valve gap, or lash, should be checked and verified.
I think he tried the plug out already & made no difference
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Should be able to apply the parking brake to work w/o getting on the seat. Please try a jumper pack on the battery set to "Start" mode to really juice up the Cranking amps.
I will try that. My lawn tractor however will turn with the park brake engaged and the deck belt disengaged but it will not start without someone sitting on the seat or some kind of weight on the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I would definitely try what I suggested back in Post #19 before diving inside...
Just tried that and no joy on turning the engine over.

Removed the battery completely and dropped the battery cables down under the frame to connect to the jumpers and be able to sit on the seat to try to start it.

Noticed a 30 Amp fuse in the first connector coming off the positive lead strapped in with a zip tie. I figured the fuse being an issue was most likely a low probability but since I had the battery and the battery basket thing already pulled out I might as well rule it out too while I was there. Fuse looked find and passed continuity test for passing current.
 

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Connect the neg battery thru your jumper cables to a point on the engine block. That way you eliminate any bad ground connections there might be. Take the red lead from the battery positive and touch it to the red connection of the starter. Do this with the spark plug out. The engine should spine easy. If so, put the plug back in and try it again. Don't leave the connection to the starter on too long to heat the starter. If the engine is too tight, it won't turn over with the spark plug in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Will try that next Monday or Tuesday when I get back out there if this will give us some definite clarity for next step i.e. bad starter vs a non electrical internal engine issue.

Based on what others have said I am convinced the engine is definitely too tight.

1) The fly wheel is impossible to turn by hand with or without the spark plug installed. From what others have said the fly wheel should be turntable by hand with little effort.

2) It is still hard to turn with a large wrench with a long handle for leverage but at least it is not seized or frozen. There is also no perceptible difference in the difficulty of turning the fly wheel with or without the spark plug installed but I can tell while turning it with the wrench that there is an area that consistently has more resistance at least when the plug is in. I don’t recall noticing whether this also happened with the plug removed.

As difficult it is too turn the fly wheel by hand it is hard to imagine the starter overcoming that level of resistance unless engaging the started somehow also lowered the resistance at the same time.
 

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The engine ism too tight. Remove the valve cover and see if both rockers move as someone turns the engine (no spark plug). A push rod may be dislodged in the engine or something much worse such as a carb buttery fly screw has gotten stuck in the cylinder.
 

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That definitely looks like something is holding the engine up to me. He seems to be cranking on that ratchet pretty firmly to spin the flywheel. I hear a noise too. He also mentioned that the resistance was the same with the plug out. Maybe the crank bearing?
 

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does this have an electric blade clutch? Try dropping the belts (all) off the engine PTO to eliminate that as a problem.
This is something that can be eliminated quickly. To OP this is something to try for sure. example: I bought a lt155 "Locked Up". When I got it home is nothing more than a old stretched belt. Yep it fires up now & spins.

Please try the other battery jumping too though so we can narrow it down hopefully.
 
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