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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've just been given a Model 175 with a hydrostatic transmission and am in process of servicing it. The owners manual has repeated warnings stating take it to the dealer to change the hydrostatic fluid. Can I change it myself without damaging anything, and if so what's the procedure?

Also there is a lever about midway where drivers sits on the deck floor that appears to be locked up. It actuates a pin that goes into the transmission case. Is this what disengages the tranny for moving without engine assist?

I'm really impressed with this old machine. It sat up for about a year and a half and cranked right up and ran strong around the yard much to my surprise.
 

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Hello crawlfish! Sorry I did not see your post! I own a 180 with gear drive, but know a few things about your machine. You can change the fluid your self I imagine! I am unsure of procedure though. Maybe a Goggle search will help you? The lever is for pushing it without engine on, you are correct. That lever needs to move easy, so spray some WD or PB Blaster on it. They are real nice machines! I only take mine out a few times a year as it is a queen of the yard! I use test machines for work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Model 175 Hydrostatic

Hello! Thanks for the reply.

I should get to servicing it today and will try to free up that pin. It sure would help being able to move it without cranking it up, especially with the the battery out right now.

I'll be searching for instructions on changing the fluid... just can't imagine why it's not in the Owner's Manual as a part of normal servicing. Instead it says take it to the dealer.

I agree with you about this being a nice machine! It runs well and is very strong. The deck is A-1 quality too. They didn't skimp on this one. Wish I had the PTO option though, but what ... it came to me free.
 

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Glad I could help some! My 180 was also a freebie! A Facebook friend gave it to us. We restored it, the first one we did! Reason I kept it!
 

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Found a service manual for those in .pdf form:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&ved=0CF4QFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.wfmfiles.com%2Fdownload%2Fmanuals%2FTM1351%2520(Apr-88).pdf&ei=D7ZYUpAbjPzxBNnZgdgJ&usg=AFQjCNFoevCqB55JXXcTDJxOW7q6BygY0w&bvm=bv.53899372,d.eWU&cad=rja

You'll want to first thing save it to your computer as they don't stay up on the net long before Deere makes the website pull them due to copyrights as they are still selling the manuals.

I've read on the net from others they are one model in particular that if they work don't bother the fluid in them. Sounds like getting the air purged out of them can be kind of a pain. Also its said remaining air in the system can cause eventual failure.
 

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Mark! Thanks! I could use that myself! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Mark! Sorry for the delay! I've just returned to work from staycation furlough. This manual is greatly appreciated! Used it alot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hydrostatic Transmission Oil change

I searched around but didn't find anything substantive on how to change the oil in the transmission. I reviewed the service manual you sent Mark, thanks for that, but unless I missed it didn't really find much on that subject, though a wealth of information on others.

After reading what Eric said about spraying PB blaster on the dump valve and some other posts about it, I tried to free the pin. I sanded it free of rust but still couldn't get it to move. This weekend after a second go, I finally worked it loose. Some milky white oil bled off when I did. I know this to be indicative of water contamination, and probably the source of rust, so I thought felt even more compelled to change the fluid.

To do this I simply removed the bottom plug, revealed only after much cleaning. I drained it a few minutes ago. I collected 2 1/2 cups of what looks like a bit darker than pea green oil. I got a few gobs of junk too but overall it appears pretty normal except for the green appearance. I surmise that's John Deere's trademark or some happy Irishman's joke.

Anyway, I'll try refilling with 30 weight and monitor the level closely with practice runs unless someone can tell me tonight whether I have more to do, like venting it or something.
 

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Yeah not as much in there as I was hoping to find about the transmission either. It is supposed to be a modified Eaton model 7. I think I read that a couple of places on the net that they compared pretty close. Here's an Eaton manual:

http://www.google.com/url?q=http://...EQFjAD&usg=AFQjCNFVB6BP_sUnyacePoJ6hO4L_UJMMA

Before you run it you'll want to do the purge procedure in the Deere manual page 275-276. The Eaton manual says pretty much the same procedure.

It talks about clamp the idler pulley so the tension is off the drive belt and then rotating both the input and output or pushing the tractor back and forth several feet to get the air out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hydrostatic Transmission Oil Change

Once again Mark, you provide an answer! And great reference material too!

After some more cleaning, actually after a whole lot more more scraping, I found the transmission's ID tag.

I'm guessing your solution will work for mine too. It's probably a stretch to even think it, but you wouldn't have something specific to the Peerless, would you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Eaton transmission and Peerless differential.

SAE 30 for transmission, not changing differential fluid. According to your references, the transmission fluid should be clear. Mine is distinctly green and non-clear. Color almost matches JD green body. Built on St. Patty's day?

With as much dirt/oil caked on the transmission housing, and being in GA, I'm sure it was not being cooled efficiently by the fan and very much needed changing.

I didn't take the fender off to vent it, but followed the procedure you sent except I rotated the wheels with transmission in forward and reverse positions while on jack stands. I collected 2 1/3 cups/600 ml of oil. Presuming it was at full, the residual is going to be a max of 100 ml that will mix with the new oil. I think I'm good enough with that.

Thank you for the education!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Peerless Differential

Yup, that's it for the differential, 5 Points!

I'm refilling the Eaton in a few, hoping that the refill works okay without venting through the vent plug. It's pointed out that air entrained in system can cause premature failure, but hopefully I avoided this by only doing a partial drain without venting? What do you think? I really hope not to have to remove the fender and gas tank to get access to the vent plug!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okie Dokes! I worked on the JD 175 for most of the afternoon. I couldn't help myself from doing more cleaning. Even took off the fan shroud to gain better access to the right side of the tranny. I ended up sanding and repainting it while I was at it. Got alot of caked clay and oil mix off the fins of the transmission, and I guess now I'm less concerned about overheating it during the summer. After that I began the refill. I barely got the 600 ml replacement oil back in. The last of it didn't go below the screen on the fill spout. About now I'm thinking it isn't such a good idea to replace the transmission fluid unless the venting procedure outlined in the manual Mark/Ohio provided is followed.

Doing it per procedure is a somewhat formidable job since it requires taking off the whole sheet metal body and removing the gas tank. I'm hoping I'll purge some more air, but it's looking like I'm going to end up with a pocket of air entrained. Has anyone here actually done the transmission fluid replacement successfully on the hydrostatic? Anything else I can do at this point? Reckon it'll settle some more with use? Thanks!
 

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I've never done a hydro oil change myself, just going by what I've read from others working on them. Still putting off doing anything to the little K46 in my Deere. I bought it new and have kept it clean and dry in a garage all the time and never done anything that would have really overheated it that I recall. So I have my fingers crossed all is still well in it. Still works like it did 300 hrs ago brand new. (Knocking on wood)

Wonder if some of the green color could have been water/condensation build up mixing with the oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
It all started with trying to free the dump valve. I couldn't even see the transmission had fins because it was caked up so bad, making the fan totally ineffectual. The dump valve was rusty. Following up on the advice I got here, I tried a combination of cleaning, sanding, liberally spraying penetrating oil , tapping the pin, loosening and tightening it with a wrench, picking out stuff, and more I eventually got it moving. When I did I got some creamy milky fluid out of the dump valve assembly, which you know is indicative of water. Probably why the the pin froze up.

You're right the color is probably a reaction to some water infiltration and the overheating, but I've never encountered green fluid like that. My first thought went to proprietary JD oil. Then it was a joke by the builder throwing some coloring in it as it rolled off the assembly line on St. Patty's day. Haha. I'm sure it was contaminated so I was thinking it must be better to do even a partial replacement.

I wonder what the shop would charge for that service? That's a whole lot of work to get to the vent. Maybe I could drop the axle and tranny underneath from the frame instead? I'm not happy thinking I'm leaving it more prone to failure than when I started, but I'm not sure I want to commit right now to the time required to vent it properly if that requires taking the whole body off or removing the undercarriage.

I've got to move on to other projects. I'll follow up this thread with my observations of running it for awhile like it is. The key is all the oil should be below the screen else it's not covering the space it did before and is possibly leaving uncovered components it was intended to lubricate. Perhaps cavitation of compressed air too?

If it settles out below the screen through use I'll report that, just in case someone else encounters a situation where they really have to change the fluid at least they'll know what they are up against.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got a chance to try the JD out today. Didn't work it too hard, but filled the yard trailer up with about 60 lbs of yard waste and my 200 lbs and repeated this for a couple hours. Kept it mostly at just above idle and it moved steady without surging. Let it cool, and rechecked the fluid. It's got back that green pea soup look with a bit of white. The level lowered somewhere just above the screen. I guess that'll do for now but I'll explore what it takes to take the back sheet metal off for a proper drain and purge.
 

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:2th: Sounds like you had some success then with it. Before pulling it apart again might just run it for a little bit as is then drain and refill again to get more of the old oil still lingering in there flushed out. Hard to tell how much might remain in there clinging to innards and inside of pockets that can't drain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, I do want to get it where it is clear. That dad blamed vent plug ought to be more accessible if it is the required way to drain. Hate to think I'm doing more harm than good.

Yeah, I was thinking that too... getting that gunky stuff outta there has got to be better than not, so I'll follow your advice and do another fluid exchange. It's only a couple cups of oil and that's cheaper than shop rates!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Changing Hydrostatic Transmission Oil

Well, I couldn't stand the thought of a bubble of air being trapped in the tranny so I went out today to look at how hard it'd be to get the body off the frame.

It didn't look too formidable, so off it went! I changed the oil for a second time, and this go vented it nice and proper as the service manual says. I started it up and walked beside it back and forth to try to get more oil in it, but it stayed at about 20 ml shy of the full 700ml.

I'm good with that. Would of had it together today, but while everything was exposed I cleaned it some more and went ahead and started prepping the body for some new paint. I'm not after show quality, but like to make it last.
 
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