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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-28-2020, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Briggs and Stratton Charging Issue

Hello all,

I have a question regarding the charging system of my 20hp engine. It has a 2 wire system, when I plug in my Fluke meter to the two wires it produces 24.3 volts. When I test for ac voltage its around 14 volts. But the battery is only 12.6V D/C and slowly dying when in use.
There is not a voltage regulator on this mower, and its a replacement for the old Kohler 19hp.
I just bought this lt1045 used a couple weeks ago and the guy failed to mention this issue. So I purchased a new battery per his advise, no luck.

What could possibly cause this engine to not charge my battery? I thought maybe a bad stator but it seems ok. Maybe I missed a quick test to do.

Stamped engine number is 31P977

Any and all help, advice and criticism is appreciated.

Thanks
Sean
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-29-2020, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Duster73 View Post
Hello all,

I have a question regarding the charging system of my 20hp engine. It has a 2 wire system, when I plug in my Fluke meter to the two wires it produces 24.3 volts. When I test for ac voltage its around 14 volts. But the battery is only 12.6V D/C and slowly dying when in use.
There is not a voltage regulator on this mower, and its a replacement for the old Kohler 19hp.
I just bought this lt1045 used a couple weeks ago and the guy failed to mention this issue. So I purchased a new battery per his advise, no luck.

What could possibly cause this engine to not charge my battery? I thought maybe a bad stator but it seems ok. Maybe I missed a quick test to do.

Stamped engine number is 31P977

Any and all help, advice and criticism is appreciated.

Thanks
Sean
thats because one puts out ac volts to run the headlights and accessories and the other with the large diode one it puts out the dc volts for the charging system

touch one lead to ground and the red to each wire and both individually should read above 12v

odds are the 12v dc side is fried

You can only learn if you ask the question, so there are no dumb questions.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-29-2020, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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So I tested the wire with the diode. It is putting between 14.3 and 15 volts DC. The strange thing is that I believe I tested this last week and wasn't getting a reading at all, now I am.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2020, 02:42 PM
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Check for a loose connection/damaged wiring/harness. That's the easiest intermittent failure mode to trace.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-01-2020, 12:24 AM
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So I tested the wire with the diode. It is putting between 14.3 and 15 volts DC. The strange thing is that I believe I tested this last week and wasn't getting a reading at all, now I am.
could have just not been making a connection or the wire from the plug to the battery side of the starter solenoid is bad. thats were most charging wires are connected to.

but as motorhead12 suggests see if moving the wire around shows intermittent power, if it does you can trace that break in the wire back using ohm meter on the wire and see if its something you can fix or if you need to replace the alternator ring assembly

You can only learn if you ask the question, so there are no dumb questions.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-03-2020, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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So I just retested the DC wire off the stator and now its putting out 22 volts. This seems extremely high, but the battery still reads 12.7V.
Do you guys think I might have 2 separate issues? Bad stator and an open in the wire to the battery?
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-05-2020, 07:25 PM
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Do you have an auto ranging meter or one with a hard wired switch for either AC or DC volts.
The DC out[ut from the single diode type stator is pulsed from 0 to 13 & back to 0.
A lot of auto meters will see this as AC so give you an AC reading.
IF the diode is buggered you will get an AC reading of 22 V but that is only 11 V DC which is not enough to charge the battery.
I tossed my nice new expensive multimeter for an old one because I kept on having the same problems with it switching DC to AC without me noticing.
Check the battery posts for AC between them
If you get an AC reading then the diode is toast.
Again if you put a lot of meters on an AC line while they are set to DC you will get a wrong reading ie, 14V DC when it is actually 28 V AC
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-07-2020, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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I didnt even think about the meter switching between a/c and d/c. Very good thought. I will check this out and get back with the results. Thanks
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