2 cycle gas weed eater repair advice needed - Lawn Mower Forums : Lawnmower Reviews, Repair, Pricing and Discussion Forum
Small Engine Repair Discussion Talk about issues or tips you may have for others regarding small engine repairs.

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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2 cycle gas weed eater repair advice needed

i have a troy built tb35ec trimmer that doesnt want to start.

i replaced the carb since it sat up for a while and put in a new spark plug because old plug had a weak spark. it didnt want to start or even try to start.

thinking the cylinders were dry from sitting up for a while i added a few squirts of oil through spark plug hole and it felt like it had a bit more compression to it and then she actually fired up and ran for a minute but died right away and refused to start up again.

after letting it sit for an hour, i tried again and it started and ran for about 2 minutes filling the garage with smoke before it lost power and died.

it never would start again after that. i tried another new carburetor i had on hand (they sent me two by mistake) just in case but it made no difference.

it wont even spit or try to start with starter fluid so im thinking that eliminates a fuel problem and i have lots of spark. i put new plug and triple checked it many times to be sure its clean and sparking good throughout all this BS.

i tried two different brand new carburetors so that should eliminate any carb related issues. when i tried to repeat what i did the first time, adding a bit of oil directly to cylinder to increase compression, it didnt even spit or try to start at all. im thinking this has to be something simple.

i am in this until the end with this thing and refuse to be defeated but i dont know what to test next. i usually fix these things for other people, but this one isnt a simple carburetor or fuel filter issue. it has spark and its getting gas, and it has "some" compression albeit hard to tell how much.

dont all 2 cycle engines have reed valves on them? where is the reed valve? im thinking that would be the next logical thing to check but i dont see it shown on any parts list diagram.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 09:14 PM
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Sadly, the Manufacturer didn't think about ELEVATION whenit came to CUSTOMER USE,...

As qe all know, the EPAhas resteicted our ability to adjust rhe AIR/FUEL Adjustments onour 2-Stroke aquiptment for SMOG LIMITATIONS" so being able to ACQUIRE the "correct tools" has been "DAMNED NEAR IMPOSSIBLE"...

TAKE CARE,

-Thomas
Western Washington State

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 11:09 AM
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Have you removed the muffler and have a look at the piston and bore? Chances are the there is scoring of both that have reduced compression lower than what is needed. I have found that anything LESS than 80 to 100 psi will be the death of the machine since replacement of those parts are USUALLY around $30-$40.


Adding a few squirts of oil temporarily seals the scoring allowing the engine to start and immediately burn the added oil off and dropping compression.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grunt View Post
Have you removed the muffler and have a look at the piston and bore? Chances are the there is scoring of both that have reduced compression lower than what is needed. I have found that anything LESS than 80 to 100 psi will be the death of the machine since replacement of those parts are USUALLY around $30-$40.


Adding a few squirts of oil temporarily seals the scoring allowing the engine to start and immediately burn the added oil off and dropping compression.
thats what im thinking too, i really need to find my compression tester and check it

its even worse then that for parts, you can only buy the "short block" for like $55-$60 for it but that doesnt include the cylinder or piston and those parts cant be bought period. not that i think it would be worth spending $50 to buy it even if you could, since you can buy a used running good working trimmer all over the place for $50

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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well shazbot, i cant find it anywhere so i ordered a new compression tester

i bet i find the other one as soon as the new one arrives, thats how it usually works lol

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keakar View Post
dont all 2 cycle engines have reed valves on them? where is the reed valve? im thinking that would be the next logical thing to check but i dont see it shown on any parts list diagram.

Keak, The reed valve is right inside the intake of the block. Depending on piston position and pressure it opens to allow fuel in and closes during firing. 2 strokes exhaust on the intake of fuel. Kind of not what you'd think, but the new mix coming in causes the old burned to be pushed out. If you have a crank seal going bad, you'll go crazy trying to fix it without a compression tester.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Keak, The reed valve is right inside the intake of the block. Depending on piston position and pressure it opens to allow fuel in and closes during firing. 2 strokes exhaust on the intake of fuel. Kind of not what you'd think, but the new mix coming in causes the old burned to be pushed out. If you have a crank seal going bad, you'll go crazy trying to fix it without a compression tester.
well it must be one of those parts with no part number so you cant buy it and the only way to get one is to buy a new engine.

this is what i have https://www.jackssmallengines.com/ja...ec-41cdz35c766

if the compression test shows "something" to give me hope its fixable then i may dig farther into stripping the block down. knowing me i will anyway because im OCD and i have a need to know why things fail and cant be fixed

its just at this point i already have about $30 into it and i hate to walk away and call that money wasted but a replacement engine would be $50 more. now if im into it for $80 that isnt terrible for ending up with what would be essentially pretty much a new trimmer, but its still too much to spend on anything used that is this old in my mind when they sell new for around $130, especially if something else broke like the trimmer head

so im stuck between my never give up, never give in, never admit defeat, never surrender mindset and the reality of you gotta know when to let go and walk away

You can only learn if you ask the question, so there are no dumb questions.

Last edited by keakar; 06-25-2019 at 10:17 PM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 10:55 PM
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I believe MOST residential grade 2 stroke engines are piston ported and have no reed valves. Larger bore engines like outboards, snow mobiles and Stihl chainsaws are reed valve.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 11:00 PM
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I looked up the wrong trimmer for Keak's example. I thought he had the old style with the carb in the rear like the old Ryobi's you take that crank case plastic cover off and the reed is right there. My bad, I'll go back to sharpening the LX188's blades and shut up
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jtclays View Post
I looked up the wrong trimmer for Keak's example.

How ya doin JT. I think this is the first time you made an error. Obtaining a 99.99% correct advice record is something I gave up on long ago.

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