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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-22-2020, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Nikki carb filling cylinder w/ gas

My first post, I received a 2003 Stanley (Murray) lawn tractor with an Intek 21hp model 407777 0 187 E1 in excellent condition but hadn't run in a while. I took the carb off to check to bowl for dirt and do a general cleaning. Put it back on, started it up and it ran great. Couple days later went to change the oil and it was very very thin. Assumed something got stuck open inside the carb and gas ended up in the crankcase. Took the carb (Nikki 2 barrel 498751) off to do a complete cleaning including cleaning the area where the solenoid plunger seats inside the brass piece and also inside where the float needle seats. A visual inspection didn't show any flaws on the rubber piece on the end of the needle. Put it all back together, started it up and it ran great again, did an hours worth of gas cutting then parked it. Two days later I go to start it and it really didn't want to turn over and I noticed gas coming out of the muffler. I dumped the oil but the viscosity and volume didn't show any signs of gas entering the crankcase but once I took out the plugs it turned over fine with a mist coming out of the spark plug holes. Put it back together, ran it again for another hour hoping it might free things up but I have the same problem again, thankfully no gas in the crankcase again. I'm not real familiar with these solenoids but I thought if it is working properly wouldn't it stop gas from entering the bowl? Kind of tough finding typical rebuild kits that give you gaskets and needle, but maybe I'm not looking in the right place. Are these the only two things that could cause gas to continue to flow into the carb? I noticed you can get a B&S replacement for $120ish, we all know that is way overpriced. Right next to those on Amazon you can get the knock offs for $30 to $35. I would imagine a lot of knock offs get bought, but you would think if B&S prices were at say $45 they'd be a lot more people spending the extra ten bucks to get OEM....
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-23-2020, 05:30 PM
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you cant just "look at it" and tell if the sealing tip is bad on the needle, its rubber and the vibrations wear it down over time and a bright light and magnifying glass might be your only chance to see the wear

you can turn the carb over and blow in the fuel line and get a somewhat indication if its sealing but just get the $3 rebuild kit for it and replace the float needle

you should also double check the operation of the fuel shut off valve, it doesnt "seal" anything but it can get sticky and cause it to not open and starve for fuel sometimes

You can only learn if you ask the question, so there are no dumb questions.
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-26-2020, 05:28 PM
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Those Nikki carburetors are pretty cruddy and love to fill crankcases with gas. I second keaker that you should start with a new needle kit and go from there...

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