Height of your lawn - Page 3 - Lawn Mower Forums : Lawnmower Reviews, Repair, Pricing and Discussion Forum
Lawn Care and Landscaping Forum Discussion regarding your lawn care and landscaping. Post pictures of your landscaping plans, or your completed project. Post your questions when you are having troubles with your lawn.

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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-12-2010, 12:28 AM
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I cut mine at 15/20cm but this is Australia with Santa Ana Couch, cutting low encourages lateral growth.
If you cut it higher it just gets spongy then you have to scarify
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-12-2010, 02:30 PM
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I cut my Bermuda about 2" in spring (mostly to spot weeds earlier) and up to about 3" in the heat of summer. I mow with a bagger on my Honda with quadra-cut, vacuuming the leaves in the fall. Bermuda is very slow to compost, that's mainly why I don't mulch cut. I pile it out back for a couple of years and eventually it becomes useful as compost.
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 04:11 PM
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I cut my tall fescue 3-3.5 inches from spring to late late summer. Then down to about 2-2.5 for the fall for the dormant season. The tall grass in the hot months provide shade for the roots, and don't allow the small weeds to get bigger. In the fall the shorter grass prevents mold from building.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 06:52 AM
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Commercially I cut on 4 inches , this keeps the money flowing when things dry out , also it avoids scalping with the big commercial mowers . At home I cut my front lawn at 2 inches , the yard is small and I have a huge maple in the middle to shade it .

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 07:38 PM
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I keep mine longer, mine is a real thick centipede

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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 05:23 PM
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I cut my Bermuda this season at 1.5" (bagged) first cut. Maintaining at 2" as long until yellowing then raise it a notch from then on
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 07:12 PM
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My place is a mix of dandelion, plantain, clover, strawberries, hemlock sprouts, ferns and rocks equally divided amongst a craggy mountainside. Aside from the weeds I do have a few patches of grass. I cut generally set to 2 1/2"; the corner plot is very wet, so it gets cut at 3" about midsummer when I can get in there. Around the drive is kept at 2" cut. That's it for the two or so acres around the house. The rest of the lot - 8 acres - is woodland and more mountainside; I'm more likely to be pulling stumps in there.

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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 07:59 PM
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Old thread, I know, but I'm confused.

My grasses and climate suggest that I keep a 1.5" height. (Zoysia and Bermuda). If I allow them to grow taller, they get real funny about turning reddish and also making seed pods, which is fine but not all the time.

I can't imagine either of these grasses ever even getting 4" high, they are spreading/horizontal growers.

BUT I want to encourage deeper rooting, so I don't know what would work. The ideal cut height for both is 1.5", and believe you me, they look spectacular when it's mowed nice and tight like that.

Any advice?

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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrusche View Post
Old thread, I know, but I'm confused.

My grasses and climate suggest that I keep a 1.5" height. (Zoysia and Bermuda). If I allow them to grow taller, they get real funny about turning reddish and also making seed pods, which is fine but not all the time.

I can't imagine either of these grasses ever even getting 4" high, they are spreading/horizontal growers.

BUT I want to encourage deeper rooting, so I don't know what would work. The ideal cut height for both is 1.5", and believe you me, they look spectacular when it's mowed nice and tight like that.

Any advice?
Water deep and infrequent and use a fertilizer with a higher "P" or phosphorus level. If you have an irrigation system " calibrate " it, you want to know how long it takes for each zone to equal 1" of water. Put out 5 or 6 tuna or similar containers and get an average of how long it takes to get an inch of water. You may find considerable differences between each zone and may save money on water bill. Only water when the lawn shows signs of needing water. Most grass needs about an inch a week. I have my system set to give about a half inch at 5 am and the other half inch at 7 am to keep from water run off. In the heat of the middle Georgia summer i usually have to run it about every 4 to 5 days.
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 02:06 PM
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Mine is mostly varieties of blue grass. Here in Denver we have a VERY high concentration of clay soil which makes deep root growth difficult and the soil also will not absorb a lot of water so I have to do a few extra things to try to care for the soil, including aeration twice a year (spring and fall) and then a good organic fertilizer in the spring that also will help to loosen the soil (sometimes) and a good winterize fertilizer in the fall after I aerate. Until this year, I had been cutting my lawn too short I believe, at about 2 inches. After doing some research on the web, I see multiple sources suggesting to keep it at 3 inches, so that is what I am trying. At least for the areas that are growing. My front lawn is mostly sloped so getting a good watering in is hard, as the water tends to run off after only 10 minutes, so I figure I will do 10 minutes in the early morning and maybe 10 minutes in the mid-late morning before the heat makes it impractical to water and see if that helps that area. I can never get that area to grow over 2 inches, and it always looks... tacky instead of rich and thick. I get a lot of crabgrass in that area as well thanks to not having a rich thick lawn as well as the open fields/land directly south of me. We are very dry here in the high mountain desert area, our humidity is generally 30-35%.

Last edited by RyGuy; 05-17-2014 at 02:08 PM.
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