Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Middle of the IN/OH line
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
It will be possible to adjust the brake without removing the wheel. If it were me I'd drain the fuel or at least screw a plastic bag under the gas cap to keep it from leaking. Then I would flip the tractor over on it's left (as seated) side. This will give much better visibility and access to the brake mechanism. Be sure to put something on the other side to keep it from rolling completely over. You may also need to drain the engine oil if the dip stick tube will end up on the bottom side. This process isn't strictly necessary if you don't mind getting down on the ground under your machine.
On the right side of the transmission you will see the brake lever. Just actuate the brake pedal and you will see which one it is. You will see that the lever is held on with a castlated nut with a cotter pin through it. That nut is the adjustment. I would pull the nut off and pull the lever off. Be hind you will find 2 pins that the angled lever presses when you turn it with the brake pedal. Pull those pins out and clean them as well as the bores they sit in. You will need them to move freely. I would also clean the back side of the brake lever. Re-grease both the pins and the back side of the lever with a silicone based grease as it doesn't seem to attract nearly as much dirt. Just pop the pins back in their bores and slide the lever back on it's shaft. When you put the castle nut back on, just remember that it won't take much of an adjustment to tighten the brake. Just fiddle with it until you get it to a tension that you like.
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