Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Central Valley, California (Near Stockton Ca.)
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Does the light change brightness with RPM change? If so check the battery voltage, engine running high RPM, should be above 13.6. If not remove the plug at the voltage regulator. Attach the leads to the stator wires. Start the engine and run at full RPM and your digital volt meter should read 66 volts AC. I don't recall what the low end voltage was, because our machines mowed a lot of freshly fertilized lawns, sometimes wet. Fertilizer loves to eat all metals, and causes excessive corrosion on all electrical connections. It gets into the stator and finds a place to eat the copper wire. Our stators were either bad or good, nothing in between.
If the light doesn't change, you may find a bad ground. I found sometimes the wires in the gauge/light fall off their spade connectors. Pull panel away slowly and carefully as Walker doesn't spend any money on extra wire lengths and you have a bunch of wires to stuff back in. Maybe Walker learned this from Echo. (Short blower kill switch ground wire.) If any light is loose, check there first. I've seen the nut that holds the light socket in, drop down and lay across the two lamp wires.
Because your engine is fuel injected, it is extremely important that all connections are very clean. The computer has a very good watertight seal where the connection is made, but those wires run with the others along the frame and by the blower and make a sharp bend. This can be a problem area if the engine or blower have been removed, and the harness isn't routed exactly right. I found this out from lack of factory training. Doooogh. (Homer Simpson)
Check any place a wire terminates to the engine, frame, or the battery. If in doubt, remove and sand both connection points. I'd pull all the relays, shoot carb cleaner into sockets until all grease is gone blow with compressed air. Now the magic! Get a tube of dielectric silicone grease and put a nice fat bead on the socket, push it into the socket with your finger. Do this until it is visible from the back (wire side) of the socket. put another fat bead on, and plug in the relay. Relay should have no discolored pins, if so , replace it.
Lastly, if you plan on keeping, or having to work on it for the person you sold it to, go to your Walker dealer and have all your ser.# and mod.# and D.O.M. and order the "correct" manual for your F.I. model. It has a wiring schematic for the engine computer as well as the rest of the wiring. I copy the schematic and trace wires by using different colors of highlighters.
Hopefully, you will get to the root of your light problem. I'll save the gear box, starter, drive shaft vibration problems and engine removal tips for later. I like Walkers, and I hope they have improved on their electrical harness and connections. Let us know what you find, please.
Ohhhhh, Never drive that machine without the deck installed. You will slide down the seat, grab a hand full of foreword lever, trying to keep from sliding off the front of the seat, and go even faster because your legs are pushing the steering levers foreword. Fastest thinking I've ever done in 2 seconds!