Weedeater WE261 nightmare won't roll after repairs - Lawn Mower Forums : Lawnmower Reviews, Repair, Pricing and Discussion Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-02-2020, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Weedeater WE261 nightmare won't roll after repairs

I don't want to trash this mower after paying for the chains and the friction disc. Plus it runs great. It actually still worked and mowed before I attempted the replacement of these parts. Now after everything is reinstalled it won't even roll. I checked and rechecked to make sure all the parts and snap rings were back in the right spots. It didn't take long. It was just a pain because there was no way to raise in up since the whole rear axle had to come out to take apart. I thought it would be easier than the Snapper since it had a sealed differential but it's now doing the same thing. When it's raised up you can turn the wheels and when it's on the ground it won't roll. I could only get it to roll when I pushed way down on the bypass rod on the back of the mower. Is there anything anyone can think of that I can check to make sure I didn't do something wrong? There was only one video online of a guy doing one side but not how to take the disc out, just how to change it. The diagrams are bad. Mine is model 960240001-00. Is there an actual repair manual or build manual on these I can find anywhere? Other than the owner's manual. It actually mowed pretty good when I had it together I just couldn't take the clicking noise from the chains and there was a chunk missing out of the friction disc.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-05-2020, 04:23 PM
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Not sure if you've already run across the parts manual, but here it is (attached).

I kept finding only the owner's manual until this one popped up. Perhaps the diagrams would be useful?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Weedeater One Parts Manual.pdf (1.95 MB, 1 views)

Adam
Flathead Valley, MT


1982 Lawn Chief 11/36 rider
1993 Coast to Coast (MTD) 14/38 rider
2003 Snapper Hi-Vac S-P (216517B) w/Thatcherizer
2004 Craftsman pusher (917.388630) w/ 5.5 hp Predator

Previously Owned:
1974 Wizard (Gilson) tiller
1977 Ariens Rocket V tiller
1990 & 1992 Snapper Hi-Vac S-P's
1996 Ranch King (MTD) 12/38 rider
2006 White Outdoor (MTD) 18/42 rider
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-11-2020, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I've gone through all available years of the parts manuals. It appears the only thing that changed was that the part number for the friction disc changed from being the part number for the whole axle assembly to an actual replaceable disc which is the one I purchased. Every other part is the same. Part numbers matched with the original one I took off, dimensions looked the same too. It's just got me baffled. There is no adjustment on the engine drive disc and it is the original engine with the mower. Without the engine in it rolls perfect. Once you bolt it down it doesn't move. I can't see anything locked up and the springs on the back are on correctly. It's definitely touching the friction disc when the engine is bolted on. I just can't figure out why. With engine bolted on and you push the bypass rod on the back to the roll position it's like it doesn't move the assembly down far enough to initiate a roll. I'm almost wondering if I should fire it up and shift it in gear to see if it will move under power. Maybe the new disc is too tight because it's new?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-12-2020, 12:25 AM
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Could it be somehow self adjusting once the engine is running and puts pressure on it?

Mark - 2002 John Deere LT150H

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-12-2020, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
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I'm going to start it up and try tomorrow. It's practically been rebuilt. I used the diagram for my particular model number and they are a lot clearer downloaded from Weedeater so I can see that I do indeed have everything correctly installed and in the right places. It wasn't all that difficult to take apart and reassemble. The hardest part was trying to maneuver it to take the whole rear axle out because then there was no where to stand up the rest of the mower. So it was a bit hard to work around. The engine had two hardware store bolts in it that didn't match the factory bolts but the engine number is correct for that model and the year matches. The engine had been out for some reason maybe the disc was changed before too. I even ordered the correct engine mounting bolts to properly mount the engine again. I do see the later models added some sort of tensioner pin that this was not made with but that's the only difference I see between the years this model was made.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-12-2020, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Update: Problem solved

I'm glad to report that after installing two correct engine mount bolts and loosening everything up I think I've solved the problem. I loosened up the sides and bolted in the engine with new factory engine bolts. I then put everything on besides the belly pan on the bottom and everything seems to be working. It rolls when the rod is pushed down in the roll position, it starts up in neutral, goes in all gears, and reverse. Mowed the entire back yard with it. Retightened all the bolts after. Just need to address the loose steering, lube the chains with some chain lube and put the belly pan back on. Maybe install a fresh blade. Besides the original engine, it's practically a new mower. Engine fires up first try too. It cost about $70-$80 to rebuild the entire rear axle. It was $45 for the new friction disc and about $35 for the chains. I guess these mowers were never quiet because of the chain drive system. Only a little noticeable drop in noise level after a rebuild. I looked for one of these mowers for a long time but I heard most people threw them away so it was actually quite hard to find.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2020, 02:03 AM
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Good Job!

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