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Old 11-09-2010, 07:22 PM   post #11 of 30 (permalink)
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maybe your right about the switch being originally marginal and then with a little wear it suddenly became a problem....probably won't do and more trouble sHooting on the battery issue till Thursday.....have that day off .....and I really hope your wrong about trouble comes in threes . One thing for sure is your really don't get to know your tractor until you start working on it
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Old 11-12-2010, 08:37 PM   post #12 of 30 (permalink)
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Well charged the battery and everything works great. Mowed Grass Thursday afternoon and everything works fine......However....I do think I have a problem.....put the multimeter on the battery while it was running and only got 12.4 V ....teste before and after mowing with the motor at full throttle......From what I have read the voltage should be around 13.4 or so if it is charging properly. Any ideas ? And good procedures for trouble shooting what could be wrong ?.....I really am not familiar with how the charging systems work on lawn tractors....The negine is a 20hp Vangard B&S
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:44 PM   post #13 of 30 (permalink)
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12.4V does seem low. Most likely just a bad fuse or fusible link coming off the coil on the engine flywheel. Bad Rectifiers (diodes) or if used a regulator are other possibilities. I think it is kind of rare for the coil itself to fail on them. Might of had a shorted cell in your old battery that caused further issues.

Here's a document from Briggs that might prove useful:

http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/mi...eplacement.pdf
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Old 11-13-2010, 04:57 AM   post #14 of 30 (permalink)
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Man, that's a great resource for testing electrical circuits. I'll make a sticky of that so it's available to all in the future. Good luck on your system. Might be something as simple as a dirty connection. Keep us informed.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:12 AM   post #15 of 30 (permalink)
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WOW ....Mark this is just what I needed....don't have any expereince with electrical issues on small engines .....this should help me to know what I'm looking at...and give me some things to try. I was suprised the battery took a charge when I hooked it to my charger...thought it had a bad cell....but it charged to 12.8 V and I took a reading during the engine starting and it dropped to maybe 9.5-10.5 V while engine was cranking. Those are pretty normal readings....I think ? .....I'll use this guide and see what I can find out....thanks again
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:32 AM   post #16 of 30 (permalink)
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Had some multimeter fun this morning ......think I found the charging issue....using Marks reference and an internet article on trouble shooting ....I had enough info to start isolating the porblem........unplugged the lead from the stator(coming out of engine) to the regulator......even just unplugging this lead was a good indication that I had found the problem the regulator side of the connector was black and charred....definately been hot at one time....... I then checked the AC voltage coming from the strator about 31 Volts AC......I then reconnected the connector and checked the DC voltage coming from the regulator.....It only read about 3 or four volts DC.....believe it should read at least 14 volts to be sending out a charge to maintain the battery. So I am assuming that the regulator is bad. Think I will go order one today. Battery started the engine again just fine this morning ....I wonder how many starts a battery can provide without getting charged ? I' am guessing I have had this issue for a while.
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:44 PM   post #17 of 30 (permalink)
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Quote:
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.....even just unplugging this lead was a good indication that I had found the problem the regulator side of the connector was black and charred....definitely been hot at one time......
Yep, that could be a sign of a problem.

When you swap out the regulator be sure that connection that has been hot is making a good tight connection on the new terminal. Might even be best to replace that connector if possible. After being hot they can loose their spring tension and not grab tightly. It might have loosened up over time becoming resistive which creates heat and might have caused failure of the regulator.

Many years ago I owned a 78 Jeep Wagoneer. One day in town thankfully close to home, raining, lights, defroster fan and wipers on I noticed some light smoke start sifting up from the instrument cluster. I started turning everything off. Smoke stopped coming out. Figured ok, must be one of the switches going bad. Stopped at a light and using the turn signal and brake smoke started coming out again. Seemed whenever I used lights even when only w/brake and turn signal was when it started. So I slowly made my may back home using as little electric has possible. I pulled out the instrument cluster and found a black melted wire and terminal on one of the gauges. Rather then using a voltmeter the Jeep used an ammeter. One of the nuts had loosed up on the terminals. So I tightened the terminal nuts back up, wrapped some electrical tape around the melted insulation as the wire was still ok. I turned everything on that drew electric and no more smoke.
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:54 PM   post #18 of 30 (permalink)
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Luckily it it the connector that is on the regulator side that was damaged......according to the parts manual the connector will be part of the new regulator. I suppose there is a possiblity that the issue was just the connector and the regulator is OK.....but thought I'd just replace the whole regulator since the connector and four inch wire harness comes with it. NOT CHEAP THOUGH....about 60 bucks. Scary story about your Jeep.
Might wrap a little electical tape around the connector to make sure it stays tight to be on the safe side. Thanks for your help, Mark.

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Old 11-16-2010, 12:01 AM   post #19 of 30 (permalink)
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...according to the parts manual the connector will be part of the new regulator. .....
Ahh, since they include that connector makes me wonder if that was something they found to be a common failure along with the regulator.
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Old 11-20-2010, 05:40 PM   post #20 of 30 (permalink)
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Well replaced the regulator and that did fix the problem. Easy job too.....ordered part from Briggs., part came in two days, loosen two screws, pu tnew regulator on and tighten the two screws and plug in the connector to the strator and plug in the DC output connector the the wiring harness. Only thing that threw me a little is after I replaced the regulator, I checked the DC output voltage and it was only about 3.5 volts......so I thought I had something else wrong. But after doing some research online I noticed that checking the AC strator voltage (input to regulator) was a common check ....BUT instead of checking the regulator DC voltage output....all the references checked the DC amperage output. Since this was a 16 amp system I was a little afraid to check this with my multimeter directly and I didn't have a shunt so I decided to check the battery voltage befors starting engine (12.19 V) and then check if after I started engine to see if it was charging. I started the engine and check voltage and it was 14.15 V. So I am declaring victory and calling this job done.
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